Palenque
Our journey in Mexico so far has largely been focused on the streets, markets and Zócalo’s in the various towns along the way. But there is a greener side to Mexico which we were soon to discover.
Leaving San Cristóbel, we head into the heart of Chiapas. The cool, crisp air of the highlands keeps you alert which is lucky as the road winds through steep, cactus laden hills, offering breathtaking views of the valleys below.
Rounding a bend we come across a runner, clad in a bright jersey and bandana bearing the image of the Virgin, slowly joging along the edge of the road. In his hand is a flaming torch held high above his head, the fire warming an already sweating face.
Behind him, a pickup truck, decked out in colorful balloons, streamers, and a large framed image of the Virgin, idles with its engine humming. Devotional music pours from its speakers, with several other people in the back waiting their turn to carry the torch.
No, this is not the olympic torch run but a celebration of the spiritual mother of Mexico, the Virgin of Guadalupe. In the days leading up to December 12 you’ll see people running, biking, or driving while carrying torches and images of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
These individuals are known as “antorchistas” (torchbearers) carrying a lit torch (una antorcha). Many of the faithful, old and young, fit and not-at-all-fit, participate in the relay runs. Eventually, they tire and pass it on to the next runner, and after several days of non-stop running, they reach the church in time for mass.
As we drive to Palenque we pass several antorchistas all on their way to Santo Domingo Church.
Soon, the body senses a shift as the crisp, cool mountain air gives way to a steamy, humid embrace. Outside, cactus and pine forests are replaced with dense jungle. The vibrant green of the tropical vegetation dominates the scenery, with banana trees, palms, and towering ceiba trees lining the roadside.
About halfway through the drive, we take a detour to the stunning waterfalls of Agua Azul. Their name, which means ‘Blue Water,’ perfectly describes the vivid turquoise hue of the cascades, a result of the high mineral content in the water.
The water flows in wide, gentle streams in some places and plunges dramatically in others. Each tier forms natural pools - a perfect spot to cool off.
Back on the road, the journey continues through winding paths and occasional sharp turns, Finally, after several hours of travel, we arive at Palenque in the later afternoon, excited about tomorrows journey into the jungle.
It is early in the morning but the air is already markedly humid. Sunlight filters through the dense canopy above, casting dappled patterns of light and shadow onto the jungle floor. Each step on the uneven path is accompanied by the symphony of the rainforest: the distant roar of howler monkeys, the melodic calls of some strange bird. Towering ceiba trees, sacred to the Maya, rise like ancient sentinels, their wide trunks wrapped in vines. Nearby, ferns and tropical flowers, some with vibrant bursts of color, line the pathways.
The deeper you go, the more it feels as though the jungle has a secret that it is trying to hide.
Slowly the secret starts to reveal itself. Occasionally, square rocks appear, far too regular to have been crafted by nature alone. Deeper in the jungle again it begins to whisper in your ear, slowly revealing the secret held within. Peaking out of the foliage, the ruins of forgotten temples rise through the canopy, their moss-covered stones hinting at the civilization that once thrived here.
Having finally revealed it self we realise we are standing in the middle of what was once a large Mayan city built between 500 and 700AD. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Zona Arqueológica Palenque is a place where history, nature, and mysticism collide.
We spend the next hour immersed in the jungle, uncovering the ruins it was trying to hide. We descend into deep underground stone channels, marveling at the ancient engineering that once directed water to the palaces. We dip our toes into centuries-old swimming pools, imagining the royalty who once bathed in these serene waters.
While this section of the city is still under the control of the jungle, other parts of the ancient city have been exposed by archeologists, with the jungle pealed back to reveal towering temples. Amazingly 1,400 buildings have been recorded, of which only about 10% have been explored.
The ruins of Palenque are home to remarkable structures, including The Palace Complex, distinguished by its iconic tower believed to have served as an observatory. Nearby stands the Temple of the Inscriptions, the most renowned of Palenque's monuments. In 1952, archaeologist Alberto Ruz L’Huillier made an extraordinary discovery here—a hidden passageway leading to the tomb of the great king K’inich Janaab Pakal. Inside, he uncovered the king's elaborately carved sarcophagus, which housed the breathtakingly adorned jade-covered remains of Pakal himself.
Climbing the steep stairs to the Temple of the Cross, perched atop a five-tiered pyramid, this sacred structure is crowned with an intricately designed roof comb. As we ascend, the effort is rewarded with stunning panoramic views that stretch across the dense, green canopy of the surrounding jungle and the scattered ruins.
It was time to say good bye to Palenque. Yet, the adventure isn’t over just yet—our next destination awaits: the enchanting city of Mérida.
SIDE NOTE
I mentioned the incredible food in Mexico. I need to start by saying it is nothing like the Mexican we get in Australia. There is not even a single mention of nachos on any menue. It is a flavor-packed rollercoaster of smoky, zesty, delights with spicy salsas and sauces flavour packed like nothing at home.
A signature dish of the region, cochinita pibil is a succulent, slow-roasted pork marinated in achiote paste, citrus juice, and spices. Wrapped in banana leaves and cooked underground to tender perfection, it’s typically served with pickled red onions and warm tortillas.
Dishes with names like Panuchos, Salbutes, Sopa de Lima, Poc Chuc, and Relleno Negro often left me guessing about what I was ordering. But with every bite, any uncertainty melted away, replaced by a full and happy belly.
Being invited to lunch at a local Mexican home feels like being wrapped in a warm tortilla of hospitality. We were lucky enough to be invited as part of our trip. The table is piled high with all the essentials: rice, beans, salsas in every color, and a stack of warm tortillas just begging to be stuffed.
Mexicans have a well-known affection for sweets, evident in the wide variety of candies and desserts available. Among them, my personal favorite was marquesitas—crispy crepes filled with cheese and natella with bannana on top.
Despite all the culinary wonders Mexico has to offer, tacos still hold the top spot in my heart—and honestly, it’s not even close.
Whether it’s smoky cochinita pibil, zesty poc chuc, or a stack of al pastor straight off the spinning spit, tacos are a flavor bomb waiting to explode in your mouth. But it’s not just about the taste—it’s the whole vibe. Tacos are a hands-on, lime-squeezing, salsa-dripping, napkin-grabbing celebration of messy, delicious joy.
So yeah, Mexico’s cuisine is a treasure chest of amazingness, but tacos? Tacos are the crown jewels.
