oaxaca
The first thing that strikes you in Oaxaca is the color. The streets are a vibrant tapestry of hues, where buildings are splashed in every shade imaginable—rich terracotta reds, bright yellows, sky blues, and lush greens. It’s as if the city itself is a canvas, with every corner offering a new and exciting visual feast. If that’s not enough, colorful streamers crisscross above the streets, fluttering in the breeze, adding even more life and vibrancy to the already animated scene.
Each street feels like a work of art, and it’s not just the buildings that steal your attention—murals grace nearly every wall, telling stories of the past and present. Murals, some intricate and others bold and playful, showcase Oaxacan heritage, indigenous stories, political messages and some just a bit of fun.
Jalatlaco is a charming and historic colonial district known for its many beautifully adorned buildings featuring vibrant murals. As you turn the corner, you never quite know what you’re going to encounter next.
The ornate, but less colourful facades of colonial-era buildings stand in sharp contrast to the rest of the city. The zócalo, also known as the main square, is the heart of Oaxaca. On the northern side of the square stands the Cathedral of Oaxaca dating back to 1535. Built using locally sourced green stone, the cathedral's façade boasts a unique and distinctive hue different to the other churches we visited.
On the edge of the plaza is a striking installation called "Procession: Time of Giants", created by the artist Alberto Aragon Reyes. This collection of towering metal giants is an impressive sight, with each figure crafted from industrial materials like scrap metal and recycled parts.
Just a few blocks from the Zócalo, the Church of San Domingo occupies an entire city block, originally part of a grand Dominican monastery. Widely considered one of the most beautiful churches in Mexico, its Baroque façade is a stunning blend of European and indigenous design elements. As the late afternoon sun bathes the building, the church’s intricate details glow in a golden hue in contrast against the vivid blue Oaxacan sky.
The markets in Oaxaca are a sensory feast bursting with colors, aromas, and activity. At Mercado Benito Juárez, not far from the Zócalo, there is everything from fresh produce to woven textiles and hand-painted alebrijes (intricately painted wooden creatures). We also explored Mercado 20 de Noviembre with its famous pasillo de humo (smoke aisle) where meats are grilled to order and served with tortillas, salsa, and tangy lime.
Oaxaca is often called the birthplace of chocolate, with the region's rich history with cacao dating back to ancient times. The Zapotecs and Mixtecs cultivated the beans and used them in religious ceremonies, as currency, and in their daily lives. Oaxacan chocolate is distinctly different from what we are used to, as the coarsely ground cacao, granulated sugar, and cinnamon is combined creating a dark, bitter flavour.
The chocolate is not used just for sweets or drinking. Mole is a rich, velvety sauce used as a base with meats such as chicken or enchiladas. Celebrated for its intricate blend of over 20 ingredients, including dried chiles, nuts, seeds, and spices - and yes some include chocolate.
Each region of Mexico has its own twist on this culinary classic. Oaxaca, often called the "Land of the Seven Moles," is particularly famous for mole negro, dubbed the “king of moles.” This deeply flavorful sauce includes a touch of chocolate for a complex taste.
Feeling adventurous, I decided to try three different types: mole negro, mole poblano, and mole verde with enchiladas. While the experience was undeniably a cultural deep-dive, I’ll admit I will stick to tacos. Mole may not have won me over but it definately left a lasting impression.
But it’s not just the city that’s captivating—beyond its vibrant streets lies a world brimming with cultural, natural, and archaeological wonders which we had to explore.
We had the privilege of visiting an indigenous Oaxacan community, where we experienced the art of waist loom weaving—a fusion of craftsmanship and culture. The telar de cintura, or waist loom, has been a staple in Oaxacan communities for centuries, used to create intricate, handwoven textiles. The vibrant threads, echoing the bold colors of the city’s buildings, are woven into complex patterns that tell stories of local traditions, landscapes, and symbolism. While I’m not sure Kath will be wearing a traditional rebozo (shawl) anytime soon, we did walk away with a unique taco warmer, a perfect souvenir from an unforgettable experience.
We were also fortunate to be invited to have lunch with some hand made tacos over an open fire - yes much better than the mole.
Nestled in the Oaxacan Central Valley is the village of Teotitlán, where for centuries, families have practiced the ancient craft of weaving Zapotec rugs on foot looms. The wool is transformed into rugs in vibrant shades of gold, red, and green.
During our visit, a local artisan demonstrated the fascinating process, starting with spinning the wool into yarn. Then, using natural dyes sourced from tree bark, indigo, flower petals, alfalfa, and even the powdered cochineal bug, the yarn was colored. Once dyed, the yarn is carefully wound onto spools, ready to be woven into beautiful designs on the loom. While we couldnt bring back a large rug I did manage to purchase a small square as a memory of this unique craft.
Another place we visited is Monte Albán, a breathtaking archaeological site that, in many ways, reminded me of Machu Picchu in Peru.
Perched high above the Oaxaca Valley, this ancient mountaintop city, founded around 500 BCE, served as a thriving cultural, political, and religious hub for over a thousand years. Its grandeur is evident in the layout of its expansive plazas, pyramids, and ceremonial platforms, many of which are precisely aligned with astronomical events—a testament to the Zapotecs’ advanced understanding of the cosmos and their place within it.
Standing on these ancient stones, it’s strange to contemplate the civilization that flourished here long before the Spanish conquest.
It is not all monuments and ruins. Hierve el Agua is a stunning mineral formation resembling frozen waterfalls that have been intricately crafted by nature itself. With breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and lush valleys, it was a great spot for a refreshing swim.
Located in the small town of Santa María del Tule, the Tree of Tule is a Montezuma cypress estimated to be over 2,000 years old and stands as one of the thickest trees in the world. It has a circumference exceeding 42 metres. and is adorned with a unique pattern of bark, giving it an almost mystical appearance.
Not far outside Oaxaca, we visited the Zona Arqueológica de Mitla. What sets Mitla apart from the other sites we’ve explored isn’t massive pyramids but its stunning geometric mosaics and patterns. The walls are adorned with intricate designs carved directly into the stone—no mortar, just incredible precision and artistry. Mitla, which translates to “Place of the Dead” in Nahuatl, was a sacred site believed to be a bridge between the living and the spirit world.
And in classic Spanish-colonial fashion, they decided to plonk a church right on top of one of the ancient structures.
With Oaxaca turning out to be one of our favourite cities so far we were excited to see what was in stall next as we moved on to San Cristobel De Las Casas. Unfortunately we had to survive an overnight bus ride for this journey.
See here for part 4 - San Cristobel.