Merida
Next stop on our Mexican adventure is ‘Marvelous Merida’. Mérida’s history reads like an epic novel: Mayan civilization, Spanish conquest, and an economic boom that left behind a cityscape of grand mansions and colonial cathedrals.
The city’s heart beat is in Plaza Grande, where locals gather under shady trees or take a seat in the “Tú y Yo” (you and me), seats that line the plaza.
A popular legend tells the story of a man who had a daughter he adored who was being courted by a young man of the village. The father, jealous, asked them as a condition of their courtship that they only venture as far as the benches in the park. They accepted, but the father then realized that the traditional park bench gave them plenty of opportunity to physically close to each other, so he decided to create the “silla tú y yo”, which allowed them to speak to each other and look into each other’s eyes while always maintaining a discreet distance.
The adjacent Catedral de San Ildefonso looms impressively over the square. Constructed from Mayan ruins, the Cathédral of Mérida is an imposing 16th-century backdrop to the lively promenades, street vendors, and historical buildings.
On another end of the plaza is the Palacio de Gobierno. This grand 19th-century building houses a stunning collection of murals by artist Fernando Castro Pacheco. These larger-than-life paintings don’t just decorate the walls—they tell the story of the region’s history, from the rise of the Maya civilization to the Spanish conquest and the struggles of the indigenous people.
Walking around the street of Merida, crumbling casas (houses) begging to be brought back to life reside next to those lovingly restored. While the restored houses are charming, I kept getting drawn back to the peeling paint and decaying doors that seem to have a thousand stories to tell.
One of the iconic and charming artistic traditions is the whimsical skeleton statues, known as “calacas.” These skeletal figures, often dressed in elegant clothing or caught mid-dance, are a nod to Mexico’s deep-rooted relationship with death, particularly in the celebration of Día de los Muertos. Whether a skeleton bride sitting with her groom or a skeleton smoking a cigar, these figures embody the city’s playful and philosophical spirit.
Like many of the cities we preiously visited, Merida is closeley connected to its Mayan history. In this case the Mayan city of Uxmal (pronounced “Oosh-mal,” because the Mayans clearly loved to keep us guessing) which flourished between the 7th and 10th centuries. Unlike some ancient ruins that are a mere pile of rocks, Uxmal boasts remarkably well-preserved structures that showcase the incredible Puuc architectural style of intricate carvings and structures of grand geometric precision.
Buildings, such as the Nunnery Quadrangle, the House of the Governor, and the intriguing House of the Turtles, all exhibit a superlative quality of finished cut stonework that would undoubtedly make any skilled stonemason feel a sense of pride. This exquisite craftsmanship is further complemented by their distinctive engineering skills, which are demonstrated as we enter the Nunnery quadrangle through a strikingly tall corbel or "false arch."
The crown jewel of Uxmal is the Pyramid of the Magician, a towering temple with rounded corners and a steep incline of steps that screams “climb me,” though sadly, that’s no longer allowed. Legend has it that this pyramid was built in a single night by a dwarf who was hatched out of an egg. Thus, it is also called the Pyramid of the Dwarf. While this is likely to be untrue, what we did learn is what you see is the last of 5 pyramids, built one on top of the other, each larger than the last.
No visit to Uxmal is complete without meeting its current inhabitants: iguanas have claimed the ruins as their personal kingdom, lounging on ancient stones like they own the place (along with a few stray dogs).
While Uxmal can be likened to a serene cathedral, Chichen Itza is similar to a crowded Disneyland.
Chichén Itzá has been identified as one of the 7 Wonders of the World and that fame definately brings with it the crowds. At its peak it is estimated that around 35,000 people resided here. While we arrived early and the crowds were managable, by the time we left it fealt like there was more than 35,000 people.
The crowds got a lot bigger than this by the time we left
The grandeur of the site is undeniable. The towering El Castillo pyramid, seemingly at the center of the universe, rises like an ancient Egyptian monument. At 30 metres high it is built as a temple to the 'feathered serpent' God Kukulcan, with 9 levels representing the 9 levels of the afterlife and 365 steps, one for each day of the year.
Next to El Castillo is the Great Ball Court. At 135 metres by 65 metres, Anthropologists believe that the object of the game was to hurl a ball through a ring that was mounted on a wall. Each team had six field players who would attempt to pass the ball — using any body part except their hands. At the end of the game the Captain, or perhaps the whole team, of one side was sacrificed to the Gods. Its unclear if the winners or losers were sacraficed so it is hard to know if you wanted to win or lose.
There are over 26 ruins to explore and despite having a couple of hours here we had to rush in the end. however we had to stop by the majestic Temple of Warriors which is characterized by its distinct arrangement of rectangular columns, upon which intricate carvings of warriors are prominently displayed. Adjacent to the Temple are rows of circular columns, suggesting that this area may have once been covered by a roof, creating a grand, sheltered space for gatherings or ceremonies.
There's something surreal about standing before one of the pyramids knowing that, during the Equinox, shadows align perfectly to form a serpent slithering down the stairs. More bizarre is Tzompantli which stands as one of Chichen Itza’s most chilling relics. This T-shaped platform is covered in eerie carvings of skulls and eagles tearing open human chests—a stark reminder of its original purpose. In ancient times, this platform displayed the severed heads of sacrificial victims, their skulls impaled on wooden racks to appease the gods and assert the power of the ruling elite.
While spectacular, there's no denying that Chichen Itza has become something of a tourist spectacle—often described as the Disneyland of Mayan ruins.
The moment you step into the site you're greeted by a barrage of souvenir vendors, hawking everything from t-shirts emblazoned with the site’s iconic pyramid to hand-carved obsidian knives. They line every single spare inch of walkway and then some. No sooner do you brush past one enthusiastic vendor than another steps in, offering you a “great deal” on a replica Mayan calendar—whether you want it or not.
While I expected this at the markets of Cancun, I think allowing street vendors to line the avenues of a world-class archaeological site detracts from its importance and cheapens the experience.
The site itself is stunning, of course. But it's hard to imagine you’re walking through sacred history when the air is thick with the sounds of ear-splitting jaguar whistle. It’s cute the first time, but after you hear it 100 times in a short span of time, it becomes irritating.
Despite this negative view, we secumbed to the fifth offer to buy a obsidian mayan calander, so i should not complain having just contributed to the issue. So it was time to leave before i bought a jaguar whistle for a final trek to the coast and some time for relaxation.
Side Note
If you think tequila is just another name for a headache you would be mistaken. I know what fist comes to mind is a small glass filled with the equivalent of petrol, taken from a bottle with a worm slowly decomposing at the bottom. But prepare to have your mind (and possibly your liver) expanded.
This version of tequila is the equivalent of a 4lt bag of red wine that has been left to warm in the sun for several hours. Just like a good bottle of wine from Penfolds exists, there are several types of tequila and its sibling, Mezcal.
Tequila and mezcal both come from the noble agave plant, a spiky, desert-dwelling survivor. Tequila is made exclusively from the Blue Weber agave and hails primarily from Jalisco, while mezcal is the wild child, made from dozens of agave varieties and primarily produced in the Yukatan area. These two agave-based spirits have their own personalities, quirks, and ways of getting you into trouble.
The real difference between the two spirits lies in their preparation. Tequila’s agave hearts (piñas) are steamed in industrial ovens, producing a smooth and refined drink. Mezcal, on the other hand, is made the old-school way: by roasting the piñas in underground pits, a process that imparts its signature smoky flavor.
While I must admit I did gleefully knock back tequila shots with reckless abandon, a true connoisseurs know better. Good tequila and mezcal is meant to be sipped, much like a fine whiskey. Also, let’s set the record straight: tequila is NOT meant to have a worm. The worm (actually a moth larva) is a marketing gimmick for people to try to impress their mates.
If tequila and mezcal aren’t enough to quench your thirst, Mexico has plenty of other drinks to explore. We all know Corona, but there are lots of equally good beers with Modelo, Pacifico and Indio dominating the bars. And if you’re looking for something even more refreshing, the Chelada is your answer, made with just beer, lime juice, and a salted rim.
While straight tequila or beer was always an easy choice, we preferred to embrace the full experience, quenching our thirst with a vibrant mix of cocktails. From the timeless margarita to the beach-loving piña colada, every sip was a celebration of Mexico’s spirited charm.
