While it could be easy to spend the next three days between the pool and cocktails, this was not the reason we chose to come to Nusa Penida.
As I descended into the blue depths, my heart pounds with a mix of excitement and nerves. This isn’t just any dive—this is my first dive in almost 20 years. As I manage to equalize and settle into a steady breathing rhythm, a dark shadow looms in the distance. Mesmerised, the extra air bubbles floating to the surface provide a clear indication of my increasing breaths.
As the shadow draws nearer, it transforms from what appears to be a rubberised jet fighter plane into an organic form, resembling a bird flying underwater. Finally, the full majesty of the manta ray comes into view. It glides directly towards me, requiring a slight duck of the head as it passes above. I can see every detail—the intricate patterns on its belly and the serene, almost wise expression in its eyes. Time seems to stand still as we share this moment.
When we first set out to go to Bali, snorkeling with manta rays was always a priority on the agenda. However, I hadn’t considered using this opportunity to refresh a long-lost hobby: diving. With some prompting by Kathy, I did a refresher course in the pool the day before to prepare me for today’s unbelievable experience.
Sitting on the edge of the boat moored at Manta Bay, the heavy weight of diving gear adds to my nerves about getting back underwater. However, the tension disappears in seconds as I watch the calming giants of the sea glide into the cleaning station, allowing the next manta to arrive.
Reluctantly, we leave the mantas behind and move on to another dive site where I plunge myself among thousands of fish and coral. Like riding a bike, the muscle memory of diving returns, however I barely manage to emulate the graceful turtle floating from coral to coral in search of food.
Another day, another adventure. Extracting ourselves from the water, we set off to explore a couple of the well-known coastal beaches Nusa Penida is famous for. Our first stop is Angel’s Billabong, a rock pool not unlike many you would encounter along the NSW coastline. The difference here is the hordes of tourists standing around the edge, with a few brave souls venturing into the pool, waiting for the rogue wave to wash them out to sea.
Not far from the rock pool lies Broken Beach, a picturesque cove eroded out of the cliff face with a single archway allowing water to flow in and out from the ocean. However, all I can muster is a feeling that it’s a lesser version of the stunning coastline in Victoria, Australia.
As you can tell, I am probably at odds with the hundreds of blog posts that gush about how amazing these places are. It’s a reminder of how fortunate we are in Australia to have such majestic coastal scenes that are unrivalled in the world. While Nusa Penida offers its own unique charm and beauty, it also underscores the sheer magnificence of the coastal landscapes back home.
20 years ago, little more than locals or the intrepid traveller was aware of the golden sands below a shear horseshoe cliff line, adjacent azure blue waters. Now, because of the photogenic nature of the beach, Kelingking Beach has become another ‘insta’ landmark loved to death.
Arriving at Kelingking Beach, it is as though the crowds have magically materialised from nowhere. The parking lot is bigger than that of Bunnings Warehouse. Reaching the cliff edge, visitors clamber for that perfect shot (that everyone else already has), jostling for an uninterrupted view. Women dressed in large floppy hats and flowing ballgown dresses, more suited to a nightclub, pose while photographers climb trees and perch on makeshift timber ladders, straining for ‘that shot.’ The surrounding area is part construction site, part tourist trap, obliterating what was once a pristine coastline.
I recently read that the ongoing construction aims to build a glass cliffside elevator down to the beach. I fear that the continued demand for social media posts and the need to build infrastructure so people don’t have to ‘walk’, will ultimately destroy the natural beauty that draws visitors in the first place.
As I quickly capture some images, I can’t shake the feeling that I am no different from the other tourists contributing to this decline. We retreat swiftly, hoping to find some sites more untouched by the ravages of popularity.
While the last week has been filled with stunning beaches, iconic Instagram spots, and vibrant marine life, the true essence of Bali lies not in its famous landmarks but in the rich tapestry of daily life. From the heartwarming welcomes of its people to the smiling faces of the children, the simplicity of local stalls, and the roadside warungs selling street food, it’s hard not to be captivated by the array of colors, scents, and sounds.
Walking through a local village, you’ll notice the narrow streets clearly designed for scooters, the main mode of transport. On these scooters, you’ll see all manner of items being carried—from multiple family members to a bathtub—proving that nothing is too large or unwieldy. The constant friendly hoot of the scooter horn warns the numerous dogs that roam the streets to keep clear. Behind the row of ramshackle stalls, the land opens up to fields of vegetables, with chickens and pigs searching for any food scraps of value.
Bali’s spirituality is also deeply woven into its daily life. The island is dotted with temples, each with its own significance and rituals. Every house has a colorful shrine, with the sweet smell of incense always filling the air. On every corner you come across ‘Canang sari’, intricate daily offerings crafted by the Balinese people as a symbol of gratitude and respect to the Gods. These beautiful woven bamboo baskets hold a vibrant array of rice, flowers, incense, sweets, fruits and spices.
While Bali’s scenic beauty and famous attractions are undoubtedly alluring, it’s the everyday life of its locals that have left a lasting impression on me.
As the sun drops below the horizon on the last day of our trip, I am grateful that we chose to avoid the well-trodden paths of Kuta, Sanur, and Nusa Dua. Instead, we ventured further afield to discover the true heart of Bali.
