While we could have spent all week snorkeling at Amed, it was decided we should venture out and dedicate a day to discovering new landscapes and experiences beyond the enchanting waters of this seaside gem.
Driving through the interior one defining feature is the green terraced fields against the backdrop of towering palm trees, creating a checker-board pattern in the landscape. As farmers tend to their crops and the cows quietly graze, it is hard not to reflect on the madness and noise and of City life back home. It’s a reminder that amidst the rush and chaos of city living, places like this exist, where time seems to stand still, and nature takes its own leisurely course.
Searching Amed on Instagram, it is not long before you come across hundreds of photos of the gates of Lempuyang Temple, perfectly framing Mount Agung in the background. The white painted split gates, known as the “gates of heaven” date back to the 13th and 14th century. But like many beautiful places, they have become ‘insta’ honey pots as people flock to capture the same image as thousands have before them, involving someone striking all manner of poses between the gates.
You may have heard the stories: queues of over three hours, high entrance fees and mandatory shuttles to get there. And yes, it is all true. Even the pictures you see of what looks like a reflective pool in front of the temple is not reality. Instead, one of the temple workers sits in front with a mirror and will take pictures for you with what looks like the perfect reflection.
Despite what appears to be an important religious space turning into a theme park, is it worth it? Definitely, Yes. In a surprising twist, the day was foggy obscuring any views of Mount Agung. But this brought its own unique atmosphere where repetitive insta photos was replaced with a more tranquil place in keeping with the most sacred place of worship in Bali.
Ujung Water Palace is a former King’s palace, now a serene garden (although the serenity was broken by some locals doing very bad Karaoke). Its name means "Garden at the End" or "Garden at the Edge". Built in the 1920’s, it was almost entirely destroyed by the eruption of Mount Agung in 1963, later rebuilt in 1998. We spend the next hour wandering around the gardens and explore the buildings that seemingly float on the ponds, their distinct Dutch colonial white façade, reflecting off the water.
Our next stop is Tirta Gangga, a royal water palace and Hindu Temple devoted to the Dewa Tirta (the god of water). Built in 1948, but destroyed almost entirely by the eruption of nearby Mount Agung in 1963 (seems to be a reoccuring theme). It has been rebuilt comprising lush gardens, intricate stone carvings, and an arrangement of tiered pools. Translating to “Water of the Ganges”, luckily it is cleaner than the Ganges, being fed by natural springs.
We join the hordes of both tourists and locals alike, hopping across the stone steps in the pond, with hundreds colourful koi fish looking up pleading to be fed. There is a legend that rats living in the surrounding area were once transformed into golden fish which now inhab the sacred pools. If only this was possible in the Ganges.
Not being a coffee drinker, the idea of visiting a coffee plantation was not high on my highlight list of things to do. Even less so, finding out that it is coffee that has been retrieved from the poo of a Luwak. This shy creature has a love of eating the fruit from coffee plants. The beans pass through its digestive tract and, like a coffee percolator, out comes coffee (well, almost). This has been given some mythical power which supposedly result in a smoother flavour creating the rarest coffee (read this as most expensive) in the world. While the tour of the plantation was fascinating, and the tasting plate of numerous types of flavoured tea and coffee was ok, I think I will stick to my drinks without poo.
Later, I found a study that reported more than 80% of all coffee sold as Kopi Luwak today is fake. So that expensive coffee we drank was likely to be just a warm cup of placebo.
While the day exploring the east of Bali and the various temples and tourist stops was fascinating, it is the simple things that captivate me more. Among all the wonderful experiences, none is as pure as the simple innocent pleasure of watching children play.
Nusa Penida
While we could have spent our entire week in Amed, the adventurous spirit in us meant it was time to explore another part of this paradise. So, jumping on a boat we take a short ferry ride to Nusa Penida for 3 nights. This undeveloped island is not famous for its night clubs (there are not any) but the ability to swim with the Manta Rays (more on that later).
Settling into our hotel, I soon realised I could get very used to a day that looks something like this:
wake up and step out of the room directly into the pool for a quick refreshing swim
jump out of the pool and walk the 5 steps over to the outdoor restaurant for a breakfast fit for a king
Step off onto the sand and directly into the ocean to snorkel amongst the tropical corals and fish
Return to the restaurant for Nasi-goreng with its fragrant kecap manis sauce, loaded with chicken, shredded omelette and chilli
Alternate between pool and beach
Complete the evening with dinner of juicy skewers of Indonesian chicken satay
watch the sun go down with a pina-colada cocktail (or two) in hand - two for one is very dangerous
Start over again the next day.
