June 2024: Bali, Part 1

For years, our close-knit circle of friends had dreamt of celebrating our collective milestone—turning 55—with an unforgettable overseas adventure. After sifting through several travel options, we decided on Bali, not for its famed nightlife or bustling party scene, but for the promise of adventure and tranquility.

Determined to avoid the chaos of Kuta, we set our sights on Amed, a hidden gem on Bali's northern coast. Here, far from the madding crowds, we sought a different kind of excitement—a journey into Bali's serene and unique landscapes.

The journey to Amed, a village on the eastern coast of Bali, began with the hum of anticipation. Leaving the bustling streets of Denpasar behind, we wind our way through the mountains, the landscape transformed into a picturesque blend of emerald rice terraces, towering volcanoes, and rustic villages. The winding road to Amed offers glimpses of Bali's beauty that many Australians do not experience, a stark contrast to the island's more commercialized areas.

As we near Amed, the peaks of Mt Batur and Mt Agung stand proud looking out over the vast expanse of the Bali Sea. The first sight of the coastline is mesmerizing—black volcanic sands meet turquoise waters, and traditional jukung fishing boats dot the shoreline. This idyllic village, famous for its snorkling and laid-back atmosphere, promises to be an escape from the daily life back home.

Our accommodation, a charming villa nestled in lush gardens just metres from the beach, provided a perfect vantage point to base ourselves for 4 nights. Lazing by our private pool it was difficult to pull ourselves from spending the whole time here.

However adventure awaits. So rising at 1AM in the morning we make our way east to tackle the climb up Mt Batur (Gunung Batur).

After a somewhat harrowing drive in the dark twisting our way ever higher into the mountain, we eventually leave the car and revert to more simple transport on foot. Hiking up in complete darkness, with the exception of a flashlight to illuminate the few metres in front, it is hard to tell how high we have come.

The walk is enough to get the breathing heavy and make your muscles ache, but just before it becomes uncomfortable we reach the top. As dawn breaks, the sky turns from ink black dotted in stars, to pastel blues and pinks before streaks of orange fill the sky as the sun breaks the horizon. Sitting drinking a hot chocolate and warm bannana sanwiches (kindly made by our guide) we witness a breathtaking panorama —the island bathed in the soft glow of the rising sun, the imposing Mt Agur in the foreground, and the distant monutains of Lombok visible across the sea. Below, the reflections of the village lights on the lake a sign of the day just begining.

Fun Fact: Mount Batur is an active volcano, with the most recent eruption occurring in 2000. It features a caldera formed by a collapsed top, creating Lake Batur. Our climb took us up the 700-meter-tall stratovolcano, which is part of the larger caldera's rim rising above the lake's surface.

Bali's monkeys are an integral part of the island's charm, particularly the long-tailed macaques.  These mischievous creatures will swipe anything from sunglasses to a snack from any unsuspecting tourist.

It is not just the heights of mountains that provided us the opportunity for adventure, but the opportunity to explore the depths of the underwater world. We spend several days snorkling the clear, warm waters of Jemeluk Bay and Lipah Beach. Here we immerse ourselves in a kaleidoscope of colors from the corals and fish. Clownfish darting in and out of anemones, parrotfish nibbling at the coral, and even a sea turtle gliding gracefully by.

Jemeluk Bay is known for its incredible coral reef and unique underwater temple. Additionally, we explored the sunken Japanese shipwreck located just a short distance from the beach, providing a fascinating snorkeling experience.

While the golden sands of Australian beaches may be unrivaled, the black volcanic shores of Amed Beach in Bali hold a unique allure. Along this striking coastline, traditional jukung fishing boats rest, waiting for nightfall to venture out in search of mackerel and other catches. In an era where fiberglass boats dominate, these timeless timber vessels evoke a sense of nostalgia and cultural pride. The history of outrigger canoes spans thousands of years, and though construction methods have evolved, the deep connection to tradition remains evident. Each jukung is a work of art, adorned with colorful sails and personalized names, reflecting the craftsmanship and heritage of their owners.

While our days are full of adventure, our nights unfold in a comforting ritual of togetherness. Each evening, we gather to watch the sun set, sipping cocktails as the sky transforms into a canvas of vibrant oranges and pinks. Sitting watching the sun dip below the horizon I am reminded of the true purpose of our journey—to savour these moments with our closest friends. As we share stories, laughter flowing out over the bay I feel a profound sense of gratitude for the incredible bond we share. These sunsets become more than just a beautiful view; they are a testament to the joy of friendship and the simple pleasure of being in each other's company.

See Part 2 here