Day 43: what’s a skimpy?
Rather than leaving you all is suspense I can start day 43, and part 5 of our adventure with the news that we are not in Broome. With fingers, toes and arms crossed the car started again this morning so it confirms that we have a very temperamental starter motor. Not willing to test fate we drove the 600km to Port Hedland without switching the engine off.
While we have had our fair share of challenges on this trip, we just happen to be listening to a Podcast today by a travelling family (Why not now) and their misfortunes. This includes being stuck in Kununurra for over a week as a result of their car breaking down following the water crossing at El Questro Gorge - yes the same crossing that likely got both Graeme and my starter motor. It seems this crossing has many notches to its name. But they had further challenges with multiple sick children and adults meaning they were not able to visit Purnululu, the Gibb, Tunnel Creek or much of Broome. Sometimes you have to be grateful no matter the circumstances.
Arriving at Port Hedland the first thing you notice is this is no tourist town (as we will later find out). The 4WDs are not loaded with camping gear and spares tires on the roof but have bright yellow stickers and large red flags - a clear sign these are from the mines. While we will explore more tomorrow, we only had time to find a place for dinner and a quick drink.
Leaving this important choice to Kathy, we end up at the Pier Hotel. Walking in the front door I immediately knew she has chosen an ‘interesting’ place with, what I learn later is a ‘skimpy’, serving the miners drinks. Now I will leave this largely to your imagination as this is a family post, but let’s just say it involved a young lady wearing only very high black boots and enough red lace to cover all but the important bits. Reluctantly (not really) we decided to still have a drink and something to eat.
Having ordered the drinks (pints only in this place) I thought I would look up Trip Advisor for some feedback and these were the titles of the reviews:
“Seedy horrible place”
“Grumpy rude bar staff”
“Nasty”
“Disgusting place”
And the best of all - “shitpit”
I think these are overly harsh, and while the pizzas were not the best or worst I have ever had, there is no doubt we experienced the real Port Hedland that is definitely not on the tourist circuit.
Back at the caravan park there is a sense of relief as we are booked in tomorrow to finally get the trailer suspension fixed (for those that haven’t read the Gibb River Road stories let’s just say my trailer suspension only survived due to straps and good luck) and a new starter motor installed. With all things going well we will be back on the road tomorrow.
Day 44: Everything is big
Big pies, big beers, big tides, big ships, big piles of salt, big roads, big trucks and big tips (and no I am not referring to the skimpies breasts from last night). Everything in Port Hedland is BIG. Driving past the hire place was nothing like you see at Kennards with trucks the size of a house for hire. The prices are equally big with hotels rooms what you would expect to see in Sydney CBD and the price of a basic pub meal enough to empty your wallet.
With the car and trailer in getting repaired, we jump into Graeme’s car and create our own tourist circuit of this big place. First stop we head out to the port to watch the mega ships (they are bigger than big) come and go. Standing on the shore line, the first thing you notice is the narrow channel is barely as wide as the ship itself. On the horizon you can make out at least 20 ships, but behind them is likely to be another 40, all waiting to come and unload.
Port Hedland is the money funnel of this nation. Every day there are more than 60 ships departing the port each with over $20 million dollars in iron ore. The numbers are so big it is hard to grasp but here we go:
BHP alone produces 280 million tonnes of iron ore per year enough to make steel for 3,300 harbour bridges
the other two mining companies, Fortescue and Roy Hill are making it rich of Australians natural resource - well making some individuals rich - yes I’m talking about you Gina and Twiggy!
the trucks that drive in the mines each carry 360 tonnes per load and are remotely controlled 1600km away in Perth
trains that cart the ore from the mine are 2.9 km long with more than 260 carriages holding more than 30,000 tonnes
This means every hour there is one of these trains unloading for 365 days of the year
With these numbers causing our brains to fog over, unlike Graeme’s, who loves doing the maths, we decide to go and get a pinch of salt. Well a bit more than a pinch as we look out over the mountains of salt higher than a 20 storey building. The salt mine produces more than 10 million tonnes of salt per year, and I won’t even guess how many salt shakers that would fill.
While we could continue to explore the big things in the town, the biggest issue we had was the uncertainty around the trailer so we head to a shady park and wait for the call. After an hour the phone rings and the news is not good. “Not only are your bushes stuffed but you have 2 broken springs. We are trying to see if we can get a replacement and will call you back”
Like an expecting father, I am waiting by the phone to see what the answer is. Another hour passes and no news. Kathy starts to go into plan mode but for once I go into denial. What we do agree is Karijini national park is going to have to be dropped from the itinerary irrespective of the outcome. While part of me is disappointed, it just gives me a reason to come back here one day.
Ring ring……”is that Mr Carey……your car and trailer are good to go!”
The wave of relief washes over me. I have managed to nurse both the car and damaged trailer through some of the most remote and roughest of tracks in the country.
So with new enthusiasm we set out a new plan. Overnight at a coastal beach camp called Cleaverville, then on to Karratha for Kathy to visit the street she once lived in (although she has no memory), a visit of Red Dog statue at Dampier and then on to Cape Range and our original itinerary.
While we have had some challenges, we have turned a set back into a new exciting, BIG adventure.
Day 45: Roaming like Red Dog
We are slowly driving along a small suburban street on the outskirts of Karratha. This is definitely not on TripAdvisor, and the fact that the street name, Hancock Way, is similar the Kathy’s last name Hancox, is not the reason we are here. It is the fact that somewhere along this road is the house Kathy spent her early years around age 5. Pulling up to an unassuming single level brick house, it is not hard to imaging it back in 1972 when her parents moved here, working for Hamersley Iron Ore. By coincidence it is on the market but I don’t think I could convince her to move back again.
Dampier was constructed in 1965 as a port and processing centre for Hamersley Iron Ore, with Karratha not many years later, when the family moved here. There is no doubt the town would have changed as it is now a well kept, clean bustling place.
While we were passing through, it also gave us an opportunity to visit a more well known landmark. Well not really a landmark but a statue to someone famous. Well not someone but a dog. Red Dog to be precise. This would have to be one of my favourite movies.
For those that don’t know, it is based on a cattle dog that roamed the Hamersley Iron Transport section in Dampier. He formed a bond with John Stazzonelli, a local bus driver until John died in a traffic accident. Red Dog, or “the Pilbara Wanderer” as he was also known, then wandered the red dusty mining towns befriending many along the way but never stopping long enough to get attached. In the end Red Dog died of bait poisoning, enough to make the entire family cry during the movie.
The fact that Red Dog roamed Karratha at the same time Kathy and the family lived here made it a special pilgrimage that we had never planned to do.
But this area also had several other surprises that we were not expecting. This included a stop at a mountain of rocks that looked like many of the discarded rock piles from the mines. But this is not mad made, rather a unique natural rock pile called Murujuga. The traditional ancestors of the Ngarda-Ngarlic people recognised the beauty of this place with remnance of its significance left behind with thousands of engravings on the rock faces.
We could continue to roam this part of the Pilbara, but like Red Dog, we needed to keep moving. Eventually, as the sun was dropping below the horizon, we found a bush camp at a Station called Gilaria.
On this trip I have had some interesting showers, such as the open air shower under the Boab tree at Ellenbrae. But the bathroom at Giralia would have to be close to the top of the list with the bathroom located in an old shearing shed.
There is still the wool rack and manual sheering wheels, and the smell of sheep in the air. Standing under the water, the floor is still the original open timber slats, once used to allow the sheep dropping to fall through, now allowing water to fall directly under the shed. But this is not a shower for you if modesty is an issue. One side of the shower, almost the full length of a room, is completely open to the outside with nothing but a cool breeze in between you and the expansive outback.
But again, like Red Dog, we are just here for one night. Tomorrow we move on again looking for John…..Or Cape Range National Park if we find this first.
Day 46: OMG there’s fish here!
“OH my God there’s fish here!“. These are the first words Kathy blurts out, with little luck, through her snorkel only a matter of seconds after she steps off the shore and into the water. Surrounding us are literally hundreds of fish of every colour in the rainbow.
Like being submerged in a fish tank, we are surrounded by corrals, with small blue damsels and yellow angel fish darting amongst the fronds. Sunlight rays shine through the clear water, like spotlights lighting up the reef floor. School of convict surgeonfish, their black stripes and yellow scales shimmer in the light as they move from rock to rock foraging on the algae. Multicoloured surgeon fish dive in and out chewing the hard corals, with all manner of small fish following picking up the scraps. A myriad of of other fish are everywhere, causing you to constantly turn your head left and right, up and down, to the point you don’t know where to look.
We are at a place called Oyster Stacks in Cape Range National Park, part of the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage Area. The Ningaloo Coast WHA covers over 6000km2 and stretches 300km along the coast. This unique section of the reef where we are snorkelling is narrow and has several large stacks rising out of the sea bed. Both of these conditions creates a concentration of marine life better than any aquarium.
I have been fortunate enough to dive on the Great Barrier Reef, however the term ‘Barrier Reef’ has only just made sense to me having just entered a ‘Fringe reef’. Rather than needing to take a boat ride out to the barrier, here you literally take a step off the shore and you are in the heart of the reef. While both are equally special, there is no doubt this wins for convenience.
The water was the warmest we have experienced this whole trip and we could have stayed in much longer, however we have 2 more full days to get to know the fish better. So reluctantly, returning to dry land we make our way to our beach camp at Kurrajong for the next three nights.
While we have specifically come here to experience the wonders under the water, Cape Range National Park is more than just breathtaking reefs. Earlier in the morning we drove into the mountain range that overlooks both the Indian Ocean and Exmouth Gulf. The road slowly winds up the range, then follows the ridge line with two vertical canyons dropping off each side to the valley floor below. On the right side, Charles Knife Canyon is reminiscent of a smaller version of the Grand Canyon in the USA. The difference is, looking out beyond the Canyon, the blue waters of the Exmouth Gulf hugs the horizon. On the other side of the road, Shothole Canyon with it’s dry river bed snaking between shear cliffs, is equally as impressive.
Having set up camp we decide to do something we have not done before. We prepare nibblies and drinks and head off to watch the sun go down. Now I have been told we can’t tell Karen what happened next so if you are reading this, stop now.
As the sun hovers just above the horizon painting everything a golden hue, multiple sprays of water appear just beyond the reef break. Over the next hour we watch more than 20 Humpback Whales breach, splash and cruise past on their annual migration between the feeding grounds of Antartica and the calving grounds on the Kimberley coast.
The last thing I hear Kathy say is “OMG look at that whale breach”. A fitting finale to an amazing day.
Day 47: Turquoise and Turtles
As I float on the surface of the water, just below me the wise old man of the sea drifts along in total ignorance to my awe watching him. His large shell mottled and appearing to be made up of multiple hexagonal pieces gives an indication of his age. His flippers and face are covered with smaller hexagons and he has the cutest dark eyes looking back at me. Then with the most effortless flap of his flipper the Majun, or sea turtle, disappears of into the blue water continuing his search for food.
We are at Turquoise Bay spending the day drifting amongst the corals, floating amongst the schools of fish and searching the crevices for ‘Nemo’. It is a big call to name a bay after such a vivid blue colour but this exceeds expectations. As the bright white sand drops below the water edge the water begins as a pale blue. But as the water gets deeper, so does the intensity the blue making it difficult for any painter to capture its hue. This picture postcard bay is one of many snorkelling spots we are exploring in our time in Cape Range National Park.
But like yesterday, the morning started with a visit inland at Mandu Mandu Gorge. The walking track follows the dry river bed, it’s white fist size pebbles crunching under our feet as we head up the gorge. Walking along the river bed, it is hard to keep your eyes down so you don’t twist an ankle, or worse step on any snakes sunning themselves, while also looking up on the canyon wall searching for the illusive Black flanked wallaby.
The track then takes a diversion heading directly up the side of the rocky wall until we are standing like the king of the castle looking out over the canyon with the reef in the distance.
Now I know I have mentioned multiple times our daily ritual to finish the day with drinks and a sunset. But for the first time in over 6 weeks the sun has decided she will not be making an appearance. Instead, Mother Nature put on a different light show with dark storm clouds and rain rolling past out over the water replacing turquoise with shades of gray and steel blue. I know those of you in the southern states are so over the rain, but for us it was a nice diversion and another great way to finish the day.
Day 48: Moving Rocks
We have all heard the term ‘Reef and Beef’ to describe the joining of seafood and meat in a meal. Well we had a fulsome meal today of ‘Reefs and Rocks’. The morning started with a drive to Yardie Creek and Gorge, the only permanent creek flowing in the National Park.
Taking the short walk following the gorge it is not long before a movement captures my eye. A small gray, round shaped rock about the size of a basket ball is moving. Then two ears and a very long tail appear to grow out of the rock. As the eyes adjust, the brain is still trying to convince me it’s a rock, but slowly a shape of a wallaby finally appears. Then another rock moves, and another. In total a family of at least 9 of these cute friends kept us entertained as they pruned, fought and hopped from rock to rock.
It is incredible how the Black Flanked Wallaby blends so well into the background. If it was not for their movement you would be hard pressed to notice them. Unfortunately it is not enough to stop foxes and cats killing them, leaving them on the threatened species list.
From here we make our way to Lakeside beach for another snorkel. Again a myriad of fish and corals overloads the senses. Swimming over one of the large ‘bommies’ I notice another rock move. It can’t be a wallaby under water. Again the brain gets confused as the rock begins to change colour, going from a mottled pattern to deep red. Then 2 large eyes appears to grow out of the rock. As my own eyes adjust, I realise that it is not a wallaby but an octopus who has mastered the art of camouflage. His large suckers and tentacles pulsating with different colours as a sign that I am too close, then reverting to a copy of the surrounding rock.
With the snorkelling almost done, I don’t think it can get much better, until a turtle the size of a large flat rock drift’s by me on his relentless search for food. Lucky for me this rock didn’t confuse the brain.
I feel very fortunate to be able to experience Cape Range National Park. Waking up at 2 am to book online, knowing that the competition is so fierce the camp sites book out literally in seconds, was well worth it.
Day 49: A Roller Coaster Ride
We have spent 4 hours travelling south from where we first got on the 60 foot catamaran called the Windcheetah. We are motoring parallel to the outer Ningaloo reef enjoying multiple whales surfacing and swimming along the coast. But we don’t stop or linger for these majestic beasts as this is not what we have come to see.
The mood of the 20 (minus 1) on board is a little anxious as many of us have travelled a long way for this moment. But as we clock over the 5th hour there is all of a sudden activity by the boat crew. The spotter plane radios the captain - “we have a sighting”. The word get around the boat as flippers are extracted from their bags, wetsuits are done up and snorkels are cleaned.
The anxious mood is replaced with anticipation as we are all ushered to the rear of the boat with clear instructions to wait for signal. Then we hear the call - “GO, GO GO!”
With this, we all jump into the water following our guides instructions to get in a line and look ahead - not down. At first, all I can see is the bottomless deep blue ocean but then a shadow appears. As it gets closer, the sun rays light up the sleek, mottled and spotted whale shark.
While we saw lots of whales today this was the real whale we came to see. But actually it is not related to whales, but a true shark. As the whale shark comes up to us we are then given the instruction - “swim, swim, swim hard!” It is at this point, excitement and over enthusiasm takes over as we all madly try to keep up with the whale shark. There are flippers kicking, arm’s flailing, cameras clicking, and people frantically trying to keep pace.
Within a minute he has effortlessly out-swims us leaving the group exhausted but excited, with Adrenalin still rushing through the blood, like the end of a roller coaster ride.
But the ride is not over yet. We all quickly re-board the boat and it motors ahead ready for our next pass. Jumping in for the next swim, we are all more calm. It seems the whale shark has sensed this, as he cruises just below the surface allowing these strange humans to follow like sucker fish ready to clean. Swimming next to this 6 metre beast, it dwarfs the swimmers around it. But this is only a small one with a fully grown adult reaching up to 20 metres long.
At one point he turns towards me, exposing it’s huge front end loader of a mouth full of small teeth for filter feeding plankton and krill. We were all told ‘rule number 2’ is to not get forward of their pectoral fin but he has different ideas. But as quick as he turned, with a twist of the body I am already at the real tail watching him snake his way out into the bottomless blue water.
With one more swim, I put the camera down and just enjoy the moment, capturing this to my memory rather than just a digital file.
While we didn’t beat the record for seeing the largest whale shark we did break the record for travelling the furthest south by this tour operator. This meant we had the added bonus of a sunset cruise. With Champaign in hand and watching the sun set (yes another one) this was a bucket list experience that will last forever.
Finally pulling back into dock well after dark we are farewelled with one more surprise. At the rear of the boat where we jumped into the water hours earlier, 5 lemon sharks, attracted to the boat lights, swim back and forth. While supposedly harmless, I am glad I didn’t see these on our swim.
The night was not over as we had a long drive to get to Coral Bay and our campsite for the next three nights. After 11 hours on the water the idea of a long hot shower was keeping me awake on the drive.
But like much of our trip, not all plans come off perfect. Just as I pull into the Coral Bay Caravan Park at 10pm Kathy helpfully says - “I think I have booked Coral Coast Tourist Park - in CANARVON” ! [another three hours down the coast] - “Bay - Coast - they mean the same thing……?.”
So with the thought of a hot shower disintegrated, the best we could do was drive 40min out of town to a free road side stop and set up camp for the night.
Today’s experience was much like a roller coaster ride with the long wait, a few minutes of adrenaline fuelled excitement, following by the release of endorphins at the end. And while the hot shower may not have happened this was still the best ride of my life.
Day 50: Two sides of Coral Bay
The majority of the time when I summarise the days adventure I try to capture not just what we did, but the feelings and emotions of the day. Today I want to start with a news article from 2 April 2022:
Photographs show sections of the reef turning white this week as WA battles high temperatures. Coral bleaching happens when the water is too warm, causing the coral to turn white as the nutrients inside them are expelled, leaving them vulnerable to disease and starvation.
Successive coral bleaching events will eventually see a reef die off as it takes a decade for the fastest of corals to recover. Scientists warn coral bleaching events will become more common as global warming intensifies, killing off coral reefs which will have run-on effects for the creatures living in the habitat, and local tourism industries.
Rising sea temperatures made worse by climate change are threatening many of Australia’s underwater ecosystems, including reefs on the west and east coasts, and underwater seaweed forests off the coast of Tasmania.
Snorkelling over a section of the reef at Coral Bay it reminds me of a ghost town but underwater. Scanning the water the once beautiful coral stands lifeless, their bright colours replaced with white and brown. On the sand is the crumbled fragments, like discarded bones, as the constant wave action breaks the dead reef down. What was once a profusion of anemones, sponges, crabs, sea urchins, and fish of all shapes, colours and sizes is now all but gone. The only movement are some of the remaining fish, seemingly lost or farlorn, swimming amongst the dead fronds.
While Coral Bay itself is beautiful, with white sands and multi shades of blue water, it is what lies under the water that is a reminder that not all places are what they are made out to be. While I am not saying this specific section of the reef died due to Climate Change, as there are other reasons such as storms and oxygen depletion, it is a stark visual image of what Climate Change is doing more broadly to our reefs.
While our plans to spend three nights here did not go exactly to plan (see day 49), I think this was a subtle sign that we had seen the best of Ningaloo at Cape Range National Park and it was time to keep moving south.
Reaching Carnarvon, and the ‘Coral Coast’ (not Coral Bay) Caravan Park I finally got my hot shower. And it was even more welcome having crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, with the temperature dropping several degrees - a taste of things to come.
