Day 15: The Girls Arrive
The four of us are sitting on the edge of Lily Creek Lagoon, a beer in hand and watching the sun go down as the Black Winged Stilts jump from lily pad to lily pad looking for insects. It is easy to see how they get their name with long slender legs and broad toes appearing to allow them to walk on water. Every now and again a purple swamphen disturbs the peace making a loud crowing call preventing you from drifting off to sleep in the warm evening air.
This is part 2 of our adventure and it is hard to believe this day has come with Kathy and Karen arriving this morning by plane. Today was largely shopping and preparing for the next week as we get prepared to go to Lake Argyle and El Questro. Although we did manage to sneak off to the hotel for a meal and some drinks - we couldn’t really expect the girls to cook dinner on their first night could we …..?
Kununurra is a unique town of lush green in an otherwise arid landscape. According to the Mirima Language, where we are currently staying could have been called "Goonoonoorrang", which simply means big water. I think this is more appropriate but the Public Works Department initially chose ‘Cununurra’ in 1960, only to change it to Kununurra as it sounded to close to Cunnamulla in central Queensland.
Doing a bit of reading as I had the rare chance of internet access, I soon discovered that the origins of the Ord Irrigation Scheme and the town of Kununurra, was not driven by courageous early explorers wanting to create a food bowl for Australia, but politics and pork barrelling. Menzies needed votes in the north and was wanting to fund a major project. With little justification, the damming of the Ord River to irrigate crops was created.
Despite its early setbacks with failed crops, the area now grows all manner of produce including melons, avocados, mangos, sandalwood, chia, citrus, and sunflowers. Water is what has created this town and also attracts the diverse and abundant wildlife (and travellers). Hence why we are fortunate enough to be sitting here looking out over the Lagoon and enjoying watching the Black Winged Stilts continue with their carnival act on the Lilly pads.
Day 16: are there crocs in there?
Water is barely lapping at the bottom of the door as the car takes a long sweep across Ivanhoe Crossing. Just before jumping in the car I was reminded by a local fisherman that there was a 3 metre croc just upstream on the left. While this is one of the easier crossing, unless you manage to breakdown half way across and have to swim for it, it is still one of the most scenic and photographed of the Kimberley.
Having survived our first croc encounter, we headed to Ngamoowalem Conservation Park to see if we are brave enough to go swimming.
First stop is Mayiba (Middle Springs) for a swim putting our trust in the local knowledge that these are safe. While this watering hole is marked on the map we chose to venture further afield to a place called Secret Springs. Now I would love to tell you where these were but they would no longer be a secret. What I can share is these cascading pools flow from high up in the escarpment all being fed by natural groundwater springs. As a result there are pockets of water that are just warm enough to take the edge off an otherwise refreshing dip. Just as Karen decides to take the plunge I can hear her asking Graeme tentatively - “there aren’t crocs in here are there?”
Taking a narrow 4wd track we continue on, winding our way through the woolybutts to Black Rock Falls. As the name says, this 42 metre high cliff face, black with algae, has a clear but chilly pool at the bottom. Despite the 30 degree heat, it is 15 degrees cooler under the shade of the wet rock face so we decide to sit together and enjoy this place as the traditional custodians have welcomed us:
Gamallwang, berrayinga Miriwonong Dwang yoowoorriyantha. Yawoorroobtha woorrb yarrenkoo ngoondengi-biny.
“Dear Visitor, This is our Miriwoong country. Let’s all sit together here in harmony”
The final watering hole for the day is Galjiba ((Molly Spring) set amongst the reads, paperbarks and pandanus. With the temperature still warm but not unbearable we decide to take another splash under the waterfall with native fish swimming between our feet. Just as Karen decides to drop into the dark water I can hear her asking Graeme again - “there aren’t crocs in here are there?”.
While today was all about swimming holes we did stop by the Waringarri Aborigional Arts centre. It is well known how the aboriginal people of the Kimberley have used artistic creativity to tell stories and hold celebrations with everything from rock engravings to painting. Now this creativity is continuing on new mediums including screen printing, canvas, and even engraving of boab nuts. Purchasing our own reminder of this special place we spend the rest of the time walking and chatting to the local artists.
As the day ends like the previous couple of days, we watch the sun go down on Lily Creek Lagoon. However there is one difference tonight. Sitting on the bank of the lagoon also enjoying the last rays of light is the local crocodile named jaws. While there is no need to panic, as it is a freshwater croc, for once when Karen asks “there aren’t crocs in here are there?” - the definitive answer is - “yes”!
Day 17: a pool with a view.
While yesterday’s constant conversation was weather there were crocodiles, I have not had the heart to tell Karen that Lake Argyle is home to 35,000 freshwater croc’s. I will probably save that until tomorrow after we spent the day on the lake swimming.
But for now we are perched on the edge of an infinity pool located at Lake Argyle. This is no ordinary pool. If you ever browse a tourism site for the Kimberley it won’t be long before you come across a stunning female wearing a broad brimmed cane hat staring into the distant range, glowing red with the setting sun and the turquoise lake below. Inevitably she will be in a skimpy swimsuit.
So here we are emulating the same photo, although I must say the g-string swimsuit does not look as good on me. While I must make it clear we are definitely not the first to take this photo, there is no doubt it it is a once in a life experience to be swimming here (with no crocodiles) with such a spectacular view.
Day 18: Winter Solstice
I thought I would start today’s post with a quote from the news paper today :
The air temperature was 5 degrees and the water about 11, but that did not stop about 2,000 swimmers from plunging naked into Hobart's River Derwent to celebrate Dark Mofo or the passing of the longest night.
Obviously we are not in Tasmania but this was our version of events today:
The air temperature was 30 degrees and the water about 23, but that did not stop 4 swimmers from plunging naked (no not really) into Lake Argyle to celebrate The Kimberley OWL or the passing of the longest night.
The reason we are bobbing around, with beers in one hand and pool noodles in the other, with a backdrop out of a movie set, is we have hired a BBQ Pontoon to explore just a small section of this mammoth lake. While most people can only experience a tour of the Lake on an organised boat trip, I managed to book several months ahead one of only 2 vessels that can be privately hired to explore the Lake.
As mentioned previously, this inland ocean was created after the damming of the Ord River. John Williamson sang a song about ‘damming the mighty big river’ in reference to the Snowy’s but that is small in comparison to Lake Argyle at 980sq km or enough water to fill Sydney harbour 21 times.
Despite the size, it does not take long for us to spot several freshwater crocs basking on the shore. As we approach they slowly slither into the depths leaving barely a ripple. Having just seen the crocs, we soon realise we have done things in the wrong order, but throw caution to the wind and find a place hopefully away from snapping teeth for a swim. It as this point I decide not to mention a news story to Kathy, that I will share at the end of this post.
As we slowly motor our way along the coastline where the red escarpment appears to disappear vertically into the sapphire blue water, we decide this is as good a spot as any for a swim. Climbing the rock face we jump like squealing children into the lake. While it feels like 10 metres high, but is likely to be 2, it is reassuring knowing that at 20 metres deep, there is no chance of me touching the bottom.
Back on the boat, we head out looking for more wildlife. Rounding another rocky bend in the lake we come across 2 short eared rock wallabies perched on the cliff edge peering down wondering what this floating tin can was doing in her territory.
As the sun was slowly sinking and getting ready to put on its nightly show lighting up the escarpment, we fire up the BBQ with the best view in the world. The only sounds are the lapping of the water on the boat and the sizzling sausages and lamb.
Reading the article further on the swimmers in Hobart, a swimmer is quoted as saying "feel the fear and do it anyway". I think this quote is much better suited to our swim with freshwater crocodiles as I will finish with another news article from 4 May 2022:
4 may 2022: A 38-year-old woman sustained a serious leg injury on Monday after a 2.5 metre long freshwater crocodile attacked her while she was swimming in Lake Argyle.
Ps: thought I would give our version of todays event
22 June 2022: a fifty something woman sustained a serious scare after she mistook a pool noodle for a freshwater crocodile while she was swimming in Lake Argyle.
Day 19: Master chefs and steep hills
The wheels are spinning trying to obtain any form of traction as the car is pointing skyward removing any visibility of the rocky track ahead. We are crawling our way up Saddle Back Ridge in El Questro trying to race to the top to watch the sunset. Although there is no chance of racing as we crawl as slow as a snail up the switch backs, trying to avoid the deep ruts and rock ledges for fear of giving the diff a good headache.
Arriving at the top of the ridge, the full expanse of El Questro Station and the Pentacost river is below us. El Questro is over 700,000 acres, just a bit bigger than your standard house block, making the idea of replacing your boundary fence very daunting.
Having watched the last glow on the horizon, the hard part was getting back down. What was near vertical going up was now vertical going back down and the fear of a run-a-way car hurtling over the steep ridge is always there. Putting trust in the 4WD we slowly crawl back down with little more than a rush of adrenaline to assist.
We are here at El Questro, having left Lake Argyle after a slow get away. This was also the official begining of our trip on the Gibb, although Part 3 of this story will focus just on El Questro. you will have to read Part 4 to find out how bad the track really is.
It seems just when you are packed and ready you notice something about the car is not right. Looking at Hux’s car it has a lean that the leaning tower of Pizza would be proud. We know it is not the sway bar as that is still on the back of my camper roof. We soon realise that rear tyre is looking a bit deflated and on inspection a screw has decided to screw our early departure. So off with the wheel and out with the tyre repair kit.
What I am sure will not be the last tyre plug of the trip we are finally back on the road, stopping via Kununurra for a quick shop. Now I say quick, much like a snail pace of climbing Saddle Back Ridge. I soon realise the reason is the girls are buying enough food in case we get stuck for three months. Not that I am worried as they have decided that each night we will be eating better meals than what you see on MasterChef.
Having set up camp in our own private site on the banks of the Pentecost (an advantage of booking months ahead) we have just finished a deconstructed fried rice with chicken that would surely get us through to the finals. Time to plan tomorrow’s adventures.
Day 20: Now that is a nice boulder
Often I write about the various things that have either broken or not working on the car. But today, it seems a similar story but our own aching bodies. We have one dodgy ankle on the old man (not me); a badly bruised shoulder on the better half, and all of us with sore feet and knees. While I know our bodies are not what they used to be, we have just completed a gruelling 7km walk.
Now I know you are all thinking what is he talking about - its only 7km - but there a a reason for the copious voltaren being taken and the smell of physio-cream in the air. We have just completed a challenging but spectacular walk to El Questro George.
Many walks have easy access or a well laid out walking track. But this had neither. In fact you not only need to travel all the way to the Kimberleys, but you then need to take a small 4WD track and then make a crucial decision. Do I risk driving my 4WD through a river crossing near 100 metres long where water laps over the bonnet of the car? It is a long way from anywhere and a possible quick way to end the trip here.
Throwing caution to the wind (and fingers crossed, holding my breath, and promising I will be good next time), we take the plunge. With wheels trying to maintain some sense of grip on the bouldery stream bed, the engine groaning as we push the full weight of water more than waist deep, we make it to the other side and I let out a deep breath.
Now if this was not enough to stop most people doing the hike the next barrier often does. The beginning of the hike is a mixture of crystal clear streams, swaying palms, fern lined red cliffs and lots of picking our way up the gorge. Eventually we get to ‘Half Way Pools’. Now don’t be confused by the name as this is where many turn around. But for those young, flexible, fit and healthy it is the starting point for a level 5 hike to McMicking Pool.
While I know we really don’t fit any of these categories we push on through the first challenge. This begins by a refreshing swim with bags precariously held over your head to a boulder bigger than a house. Luckily we had someone tall enough to stand on to thrust ourselves up and over the rock.
This was the beginning of a further 2 hours of rock hoping, bolder climbing, ankle tripping, water slipping, waterfall climbing hike.
But the end was all worth it with spring water cascading down from the rock face into a plunge pool clearer than any home swimming pool. With the water temperature just cool enough to give respite to the throbbing legs we flop into the pool proud of our achievement of getting this far.
While the thought of leaving this little oasis is made harder with the knowledge we need to do it all over again on the return, we know a cold beer (and some drugs) are waiting back at camp.
While our bodies just want to collapse into bed we drag ourselves in to the car and head to Pigeonhole Lookout to watch the sun set over the confluence of the Pentecost and Chamberlain rivers, followed by a tasting plate of beef, char-grilled vegetables and an assortment of condiments that would likely beat last nights MasterChef meal. All washed down with one extra voltarin for good measure.
Day 21: Z before A
Sitting in the bath the water is a warm 26 degrees. There is the opportunity to use the jets to get a good massage if just lying there relaxing is not enough. It is a much needed break from yesterday and an opportunity to wash off the dust from the last week. But this is no ordinary bath. We are sitting in Zebedee Springs in our natural bath warmed by the spring water emanating from deep underground. Surrounding us is a greenery of tropical ferns and palms like they have been transplanted from a tropical island.
While we could have stayed here all day there is a clear reason why it is only accessible until midday. While they say it is to protect this fragile watering hole, I am sure it is just a way to ensure people don’t stay.
While the day started with a Z, it finished with an A as we donned the walking boots again for another hike, this time to Amalia Gorge.
Walking through the Gorge the Woolybutts and Cabbage Gum spread their canopy providing much needed shade. But it is the water loving Weeping Paperbarks that line much of the gorge that make this such a special walk. This versatile tree and its bark is used by the aborigines for shelter, bedding and temporary food wrapping or cooking.
The contrast between the white trunks of the Paperbark, the vivid blue skys, rich red rocks and green vegetation is mesmerising. This is only broken by flashes of gold from the sickle leaf wattle.
The hike follows small pool after pool up the gorge until you can travel no further. Here you are greeted by a sheer cliff face with an Olympic sized pool at the bottom. Looking up you can only imagine the volume of water that must cascade over the falls in the wet season. In 2002 they had 500mm of rainfall in just one day - definitely enough to fill up our bath from this morning.
With this being our last night we decided to spoil ourselves and ventured into the main Station for dinner. While it was definitely not as good as the last 2 nights and was sure to be eliminated from MasterChef, it was still good to not have to cook and clean up for the night.
