April 2021: INSTA-Gostwyck, NSW

As the cooler temperatures start to take hold what better thing to do than go on a road trip to country NSW in the hope of capturing some of reds, yellows and oranges of autumn.

On the bucket list is Gostwyck Chapel, a magnet for insta-photographers at this time of year. Officially known as 'All Saints Anglican Church', the Chapel was built in 1921 in memory of Major Clive Collingwood Dangar who lost his life during World War I.

Gostwyck Chapel is located on a small country road not far out of Uralla in New South Wales. What a great excuse to book into the nearby Thunderbolt Inn (also known as the ‘Bottom Pub’ to distuinguish it from the other pub up the road) for the night. This quintessential pub sums up the numerous watering holes in this part of NSW - A huge ‘chicken snitzy’ for dinner, comfy bed and a beer on tap that has continued to serve a cold ale since 1909.

Waking early (although probably not early enough), we pack the camera gear for the short drive. With the golden orb rising over the surrounding Poplar trees it was a quick stop as the landscape exploded into a sea of yellow.

What we forgot is that this time of year it can get very cold in the morning……. And i mean -2 Degrees cold!!

With the fingers partly frozen in place I was contemplating the need to push the shutter button with my nose. My sister decided she needed to warm her feet so proceeded to put her hand gloves over her toes in the vein hope of recovering blood flow.

Despite the cold, we pushed on to capture some of the colours that make this chapel famous.

What stands out most is the Virginia Creeper covering the chapel that is normally an apple green colour for most of the year. As temperatures cool the leaves turn a brilliant crimson.

Luckily for us there was only one photographer who was there when we arrived - obviously more dedicated than us - and a couple of others who came and went after capturing their snap to put on Instagram. As we were here mid-week we managed to avoid the crowds that can often turn up, shoulder to shoulder, to secure their ‘unique’ image.

I know it is hypocritical of me to trash the Insta-phenonium as I click away like thousands of people before me.  But there is no denying the mad rush to copy other images that flood the internet. There is a famous site (Insta Repeat) that highlights the repetitive sameness of many pictures and the influencers who ‘wear the same yellow jacket on a lake in the canoe with a large sun hat’ pretending to be original. Today’s fast paced digital culture is driven by the mili-second finger scroll between photos taken by those who look no further than capturing that famous snap already captured by thousands before them.

Having gone through the drug phase of posting photos to get the adrenalin kick of ‘likes’, I am now a reformed social media addict, who has kicked the habit.

Now I know if anyone scrolls through my images (including these ones), you can equally accuse me of a lack of originality. I could argue that this is no different to the days of film photography (yes I was around for that) when you stood in front of the iconic land mark building like the Eiffel tower, to show where you have been. Equally I could argue that any image has already been captured by someone else, especially in those ‘scenic’ popular places to visit, and it is not possible to be unique.

But my self justification is that for me it is not the idea of capturing that one image, then moving on to the next, like a fisherman trying to catch the biggest fish – but the experience in between the shutter being pressed.  The time with family and friends (such as this trip with my brother and sister) or the stories that lie behind an image.  This is ultimately why I enjoy writing about my photography adventures (even if no one actually reads them).

While the Gostwyck Chapel is the cutest of the churches, we also spent some time exploring Armidale with its numerous churches surrounded by the many hues of autumn - and generally not on the Insta-bucket list circuit.

The day was spent exploring the back roads of places with names such as Saumarez, Ballydine, Walcha, Terrible Billy, and Hanging Rock (no NOT the one in Victoria bro) on our way to Nundle.

Amongst the paddocks and fields there is a constant streak of canary yellow as the Poplar trees reach for the sky. These large, stately trees are widely used for shelter belt planting and along driveways. At this time of year they explorde in a flush of colour providing an attractive landmark visible from miles around.

We spent 2 days exploring the backroads and country towns taking in the intoxicating colours of autumn. At the same time, we sampled the home-made apple pies and local jams freshly made by members of the Country Women’s Association and dined out on sausage rolls and vanilla slices from the corner bakery. We drank in the local pubs surrounded by more bush hats than a rodeo, and got lost in second hand stores overflowing with antiques.

While these may not make the ‘Insta hall of fame’, the flavours and hospitality will last much longer in my memory than any single image.

POST SCRIPT:

While the purpose of the trip was to photograph the colours of autumn it was hard not to capture some of the other classic images of this part of country New South Wales. So I will end this post with some images that you will hopefully not see on ‘Insta Repeat’……unless i start an amazing trend that everyone will want to copy?

Thanks for another great weekend with my brother and sister. While the photography is fun it is spending time together that makes these a great weekend.

April 2021: Campdrafts and Cutting

The early chill is in the air so what better time for another road trip, this time in the hunt for autumn leaves. Now don’t get confused as the following is not a story of the amazing colours of autumn (that will be for another post) but a serendipitous side trip to not one, but two horse events that we stumbled upon – the Nundle Campdraft and the National Cutting Horse Association event at Scone.

Horses, drovers and stockmen have played a pivotal role in the history of this country. Over 100 years ago the pioneering stockman relied on their skills, and that of their horse, to muster thousands of head of cattle on the open plains of the Australian outback.

One skill essential for any stockmen was the need to separate or ‘cut out’ a cow from the rest of the mob (herd). This might be to remove it to another holding yard or carry out branding or some other procedure with much protest from the cow. With natural instincts to huddle together, it not only takes patience and skill to separate the cow, but even more to prevent them from doing everything they can to return to the mob.

What was an essential tool of the trade, quickly became a competition between riders to see who could do this the quickest. It has now transitioned to a modern day sport testing horse and rider against the cattle.

While the process of ‘cutting’ is not unique to Australia, Campdrafting has similar origins but could be claimed to be one of our own. One rumour is that the original competition was one station owner who thought he had a better stockman than another so they put some money up and the contest was to cut 20 head of cattle out of one yard and take them 300 or 400 yards individually and put them in another yard. While there is no doubt this probably occurred acorss many stations, the first formal Campdrafting competition was held at the Tenterfield Show in 1885. I have copied an extract of what happens in a Campdraft below.

One mounted rider moves into a small yard, called a camp, and selects one beast from a small mob of cattle. He or she then proceeds to move the beast towards the camp opening – which is blocked by two gates. The mounted rider blocks and turns the beast several times across the face of the camp. When the rider feels they have shown the Judge enough of their horse’s ability to hold the beast clear of the mob, they call for the gates to be opened so they can take the beast out into a much larger area to complete a course.

The course consists of two pegs (usually small trees) set apart, one on the left and one on the right, directly out from the front of the camp. Some distance from these pegs are another two pegs that are set close together and represent the gate. The judge declares at the beginning of competition whether the course is left hand or right hand. If the course is right hand the rider must complete a circle around the right hand peg first, then changeover in the middle and complete a circle around the left hand peg. The rider then drives the beast out behind the gate and pushes it through the gate. At this point, the rider has finished the ‘run’, which must be completed in less than 40 seconds.

The scoring is out of 100 points. The camp section carries a maximum of 26 points, the course, a maximum of 4 points and a further 70 points can be allocated for horsework.
— (https://www.australiancampdrafting.com.au/)

Sitting watching rider and horse manipulate the cow around poles and through gates, it did not take long before we were almost professionals, scoring the good riders from the unfortunate who’s beast got the better of them.

We watched (and photographed) for several hours the dance between the beast, the rider and the horse, dust filling the air as each rider made their run.

While photographing the action in the ring was exciting, it did not take me long to get distracted with the smaller things that make these types of event unique.

At the heart of any event is the people. The organisers, the riders, the spectators, the families and kids. What i love about this is that it is a family event. It does not take long to see several generations of the one family all sharing their passion for campdrafting. From the smallest child in boots and a hat 5 sizes too big, to the old wiry grandfather who has mustered more herds over thousands of kilometres than he can remember. It is the coming together of not only families, but whole communities.

Events such as these often rely on volunteers and everyone gets involved. Even the canteen is looked after by a group of elderly ladies who no doubt, are active in the Country Womens Association.

Having grown up in the ‘big smoke’ I think we have lost a broader sense of community and looking out for each other. Breaking down on the side of a country road, it would not be long before not only someone stops to see if you need a hand, but equally likely, a willingness to not only help repair your car but then take you back to their place for dinner. You can only dream of this as you stand on the side of a busy city road with thousands of drivers, eyes fixated in front of them on their rush to where ever they are going, hardly glancing at the stranded driver.

(A special thanks to Emma for taking the time to share her knowledge and experience when we stopped to chat. It is people like this that demonstrate the friendliness and warmth of those that live in the country)

One thing that is ever present, no matter the age or gender, is the essential broad brimmed hat that is permanently affixed to everyone’s head.

As Aussie icons go, the Akubra hat is as well recognised as the Sydney Harbour Bridge or Vegemite. In 1874 Benjamin Dunkerley arrived in Tasmania from England and decided to start a hat making business in Hobart. It was not long before he realised he could use cheap rabbit felt, which continues today. The trade name "Akubra" came into use in 1912 and is now to be found in nearly every ute, truck or 4WD in the outback.

Traditionally the hat of choice for anyone in the country, these are slowly being replaced by ‘trucking caps’ and American Cowboy Hats’. A part of me is sad to see this small emblem of Australia being consumed by global forces.

They say a hat tells a lot about the person. While the following photographs may not reveal the full story, there is no doubt they are a quintessential part of who we are as a country.

2021 - Autumn trip-103.jpg

A lot of emphasis is placed on the skills of a rider, but all good horseman know that it their trusty ride that can make all the difference.

Campdrafting requires a horse with a multitude of skills. It needs to have the intelligence to read the movement of cattle, the athletic ability in the camp, the ability to gallop fast to rein in any loose beast, the ability to stop and turn on a dime, all while remaining responsive to the rider's control.

The Australian Stock Horse is the ideal mount that meets these demands. The history of the breed began with the arrival of the First Fleet which brought the first horses to Australia in 1788. Through successive breading they developed the strength and stamina to survive and work in the harsh Australian environment.

Explorers, stockmen, settlers, bushrangers and WW1 troops all relied on these magnificent animals, some of them becoming folklore in stories such as The Man from Snowy River and Clancy of the Overflow.

Another essential companion is the working dog. Every good ute will have a kelpie or cattle dog hanging off its back tray.

The origins of the blue heeler, or Australian cattle dog, are mired in myth and mystery but it is believed to be the offspring of a dingo and an English drover's cur. It's believed to be the only instance in the world where a wild dog has been bred with a domestic dog to achieve an easily trainable working offspring. There are similar stories of the origin of the Australian kelpie being developed by crossing the Scottish collie with the dingo. While there may be no certainty in its origin, what is known is that a lot of farms would be lost without them.

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Walking through the sea of horse floats, there are many other ‘tools of the trade’ that accompany any rider. The smell of leather from the freshly dubbined saddles, the boots and spurs to both protect and control the rider and the assortment of bridles and leads - each one bearing the marks of hundreds of rides.

And finally, i cant forget you cant dance without a partner. And in campdrafting, the partner is the cow. for any good score to be achieved you need to select a cow that will bring out the best of both horse and rider. They can’t be slow or easy or the scores will be low. They also can’t be scattery or nervous as they will not be able to be controlled. Like a good dance, it is the pulsating relationship between both where the magic occurs.

All of the above photos were from the Nundle Campdraft. Below are some more images from the Scone Cutting. While I would have loved to get more photos from the ‘Cutting’ (there is a story there I wont get in to) it did not have the rawness and friendliness of Nundle campdraft. Maybe they will invite me back to actually do a positive story in the future.

March 2021: Kosciuszko National Park, NSW

Climbing Mount Kosciuszko must be on every Australians bucket list to do atleast once in their life. Well, the second time for me anyway. There are harder hikes, and higher mountains, but to say you have stood on the top of Australia’s highest mountain is a pilgrimage not to be missed.

For us we have tried to do the walk a couple of times in the last few years but events prevented us. The first time was cancelled due to the fires that sweapt through a large part of NSW, followed by COVID forcing us in to lockdown.

But luckily for us, the weather gods were on our side, so it was a quick pack of the camper for three nights camping in Kosciuszko National Park.

Top of the world…. well Australia any way

While many people take the simpler up and back road from Charloette Pass or Thredbo, we chose the slightly longer, and much more scenic, 24km Main Range Walk departing from Charlotte’s Pass.

Deciding the take a few days off from work we avoided the easter crowds so had much of the walk to ourselves.

Heading in an anti-clockwise direction, the track makes its way down a well laid path to the Snowy River where it is a simple rock-hop to the other side. We were walking in early April so there was not much snow melt but I am sure when the river is running you may need to get ready for a brisk wade across.

Once you cross the Snowy river, the track slowly climbs past alpine meadows and tarns. Unfortunately many of the wildflowers had finished blooming but the shades of green against the sky blue still kept my camera busy.

The track makes its way down over Carruther’s Creek before rising again to the ridge overlooking Blue Lake. Here there is a short detour to the Blue Lake lookout, and slightly further on to the Lake itself. This is only a short detour but well worth it - although i am not really convinced of it being blue in comparison to the amazing blue lakes of Canada, but nice never the less.

From here, the path becomes more rustic with laid stones preventing you from getting lost or wondering off onto the sensative high alpine meadows.

We did not have time to take a detour to Mount Twynam (the third highest mountain in Australia) as we were keen to bag the highest, so we gave it a miss. As you reach Carruthers Peak, the layers of blue ranges disapears into the distance.

From Carruthers Peak, the trail joins onto a metal boardwalk further preventing erosion and trail damage. While these are not very natural, they are somewhat photographically beautiful as they wind their way over the hills.

Eventually you come to Albina Lake and probably the highlight of the walk. What better place to rest and have lunch.

From Lake Albina the track changes back to a stony path as you get your first glimpses of Mount Kosciusko, with small ants standing on its summit. Now dont get excited thinking you will be seeing any grand peak or rocky spire. It is more a hump than a mountain.

The track finally comes to an intersection with the main trail from Thredbo where you turn right and join the crowds making their way to the summit as the track winds around the final metres to the top.

While 100,000 people summit Mount Kosciuszko each year, we were lucky to visit out of holidays with only 5 or 6 people on top when we arrived. Luckily it did not take long for us to have the roof of Australia to ourselves.

Mount Kosciuszko used to be spelled Mount Kosciusko (without the z) but i think it should have been renamed as Wikipedia pronounces it - KOZ-ee-OS-koh. At 2,228 metres (7,310 ft) above sea level it hardley a mountain in world comparison, but it is our little hill and we are proud of it.

Like all good ozi legends, there is a rumour that the adjacent Mount Townsend is the highest mountain but the names were swapped rather re-educate the populace of the name of the highest mountain - but just a rumour i promise.

Having bagged one of the ‘7 summits’ i think i will just be happy knowing i have seen and not climbed three others, Denali, Kilimanjaro and Everest. From the summit, back down you pass 2 landmarks. First is Australia’s highest toilet - I had to at least give it a go. Then you pass Seamans Hut. This is named after Laurie Seaman who died with his partner, Evan Hayes, in a ski trip in 1928. This hut was erected in 1929 for the use of those who might need emergency shelter in the mountains. It was renovated in 1938 due to fire.

From hear you follow the service road which is a tedious 6km trudge back to charloette Pass. The only real scenic point is the Snowy River crossing - (no rock hopping this time with a wide bridge) until you reach the snow gums, a sign that you are almost back to Charloette Pass.

The next day we chose a much easier stroll along the Snowy river. While many people come here to try their luck at a bit of fly fishing, we chose a more leisurely walk.

We spent three days camped at Threadbo Diggings campsite. This was a bit of a drive to get to Charloette’s Pass, but it is small and well set up, an ideal spot to star gaze by the fire.

Thanks Gabe and John for a lovely few days and here is a photo of the friend you made on the trip :)

I only want one sip of the wine I promise!

January 2021: Lennox Head, NSW

What was meant to be a week enjoying the sun and beach ended up being several days of torrential rain and overcast skies. Not the most exciting for photography.

Luckily I managed to get at least one morning of colour in the sky.

This is why they call it the Golden Hour

While the rain kept the camera in the bag it was still great spending time with the family.