October 2017: A Different kind of Roadtrip - USA

While this site is largely dedicated to travelling throughout this great land called Oz i was fortunate enough to escape for a short trip to the US of A.  So what better excuse to do a quick road trip through California, Arizona and Utah.

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Not a bad way to see..

The might US of A.

If you are going to do a road trip in the US it has to be in one of these.

While the aim was to spend some time in the National Parks, i could no miss the opportunity of travelling along part of Route 66.  While Australia has some great stretches of road i can see why this has entered in to US folklore.

The first experience of Zion National Park  was entering via the scenic byway. Completed in 1930, this is considered one of the great road-building accomplishments at the time. Heading down into the valley you descend via several switchbacks, passing through two long narrow tunnels blasted through the cliffs.  With jaw dropping scenery it is easy to see why this is a hikers navana.

For me it was two hikes, the first being Angels Landing.  As the name suggests this hike takes you to what feels like the top of the world.

The first part of the hike follows the West Rim Trail along the river than up a series of switchbacks which appears to cling to the canyon wall.  From here it is into Refrigerator Canyon (yes a nice cool section) then some more significant switchbacks, called Walter's Wiggles. At Scout Lookout the sign stating that 7 people have died doing the last section - usually enough to stop most walkers here, especially those afraid of heights.  For the brave (or stupid if you include me) the last section of the trail uses chains to follow the ridge (with bottomless drop-offs either side) across a saddle and up the hogs back. The pictures don't do it justice.

The other walk, not as dramatic but just as interesting was Hidden Canyon. With sections of this hike are similar to Angels Landing, it has vertigo-inducing trails and chains to prevent you from falling to the depths below. From here you enter a long slot canyon. 

Bryce Canyon National Park is a geological oddity with ancient sandstone cliffs carved into bizarre pillars.  The hike takes you down into the canyon and winds its way through the towering rock formations and pine trees. In the early morning the thousands of hues of yellow and orange sandstone mix with the sky.

Antelope Canyon is another geological wonder in Arizona. These narrow canyons are formed by water rushing through rock leaving behind a clay sculptures masterpiece. While the solitude shown in the pictures is calming, i was fortunate to be on a specific photographers tour, otherwise you are subjected to a sardine like football scrum full of iphones pointed to the sky.

Horseshoe Bend in Arizona is a section of the Colorado River where the power of water over millennium can be seen at work. It is about a 3/4 mile (need to use miles not km when in the US) walk out to the edge overlooking Horseshoe Bend. There are no barriers (the lawyers have obviously not got involved yet) where you can stand on the edge of the canyon - or sit like this couple. 

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Monument Valley, Utah, is like a scene our of the Wild West - Actually it is a scene as many movies were shot here. It is also the sacred heart of the Navajo Nation. Ancestral spirits was over the towering sandstone rock formations.  Modern day Navajo's also sell their amazing craft so if you want to get something authentic this is the place.  

The 17-mile scenic drive allows you to weave amongst the 1,000 feet towers.  It almost competes with the endless Australian outback skys and milky way but I must say i do miss the southern cross. 

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The Grand Daddy of them all is the Grand Canyon. There are not many words that can describe the shear expanse and majesty of this place. 

The National Park Website says "DO NOT attempt to hike from the rim to the river and back in one day, especially during the months of May to September."  So off I set to hike from the rim to the ..... as far as i could get in one day.  Taking the South Kaibab Trail, this steep hike into the valley depths gives view after stunning view. With names such as Ooh-Aah Point it is no wonder.  After a long hike down and knowing it would take twice as long doing the tough uphill grind I made it to Skeleton Point (a hint to turn around if i wanted to get before midnight).

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Yosemite National Park is extremely busy but surprisingly if you are prepared to hike it dos not take long to escape the crowds.  While it is best known for its waterfalls, Taking the 4 Mile Trail from the valley floor all the way up to Glacier Point to the most amazing view out over El Capitan and Half Dome. From here it was on to Panorama Trail (another 9 miles) weaving back to the valley floor through deep valleys, grand meadows, ancient giant sequoias, and waterfalls. After 21km of walking I deserved a beer at the end of the day.

There is more to Yosemite that the main valley.  Heading over Tioga Pass just about every bend in the road reveals another breathtaking view. The pass is only open for a few month of the year due to snow. Tenaya Lake is the largest natural lake in Yosemite.  Once you get on the other side of the pass you can drive back along the range.  Alabama Hills Natural Arch and the escarpment of the eastern Sierra Nevada were the backdrop to many western movies.

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Booti Booti National Park, NSW

This story appeared in Issue 65 of 4WD Touring Australia

 

When many Sydneysiders think of fleeing the rat race for a summer escape it normally does not take long before they point the 4WD north and head up the coast.  Like a moth to light, they congregate on the narrow strip between ocean and land, alternating between beach cricket, sandcastles and seeing who can catch the biggest wave.

As you head north there are a multitude of options from well equipped caravan parks on the coast to more rustic National Parks.  And one of the best of these is the water-bound Booti Booti National Park trapped between Myall Lakes and the Pacific Ocean. Located 140km north of Newcastle this stretch of coast is a haven for families on holiday, anglers searching for that elusive kingfish, or surfers chasing the endless summer.

Leaving the Pacific Highway just north of Bulahdelah, the Lakes Way gives a clue to your destination.  As the road hugs the edge of the Lake on the left, the coastal rainforest cascades down the hill on the right until they collide together in a long thin sand-spit. This narrow strip of sand is also where you will find the Ruins Campground. 

This large grassed area located next to the beach has all the necessary facilities to keep the children and partner happy. It operates on a first-come first-served basis so like many coastal spots, these are often best avoided in the peak holiday periods unless you don’t mind sharing your neighbours music till late in the night.

Here you are spoilt for choice on how to relax with ocean on one side and the lake on the other. For families care must be taken as the beach is not patrolled, but for surfers Blueys and Boomerang are the spot to search for the rolling swell.

In 1818 John Oxley carried a boat from Booti Booti to Boomerand Beach.  Luckily you don’t need to carry one that far with numerous spots to launch your boat or kayak in the peaceful Wallis Lake.

And if you want a break from water activities there are several walks including seven mile beach or the shorter, but no less spectacular 3km walk to Elizabeth Beach via Booti Hill.  Another scenic walk is Cape Hawke lookout which supposedly offers 360 degree views along the coast from a tower however the tall trees have other thoughts blocking some of the view.  And while sunrise is still spectacular, there are more mosquitoes than tourists on bondi beach to keep you company so take the repellent – you have been warned.

The Park is named after “butibiti” the local Worimi word meaning ’plenty of honey’.  And while you may not find the illusive golden nectar there are not many sweeter spots you will find on the coast. 

 

Chichester Rock Pools, NSW

This story appeared in Issue 65 of 4WD Touring Australia

 

While summer often means its time to camp on the coast, unfortunately it also means camping with crowds.  An alternative is to escape to one of the great inland swimming holes that lie within easy reach of the big smoke. Chichester State Forest is just 3 hours north west of Sydney near the more famous Barrington Tops National Park and may just be that alternative you are seeking.

You know you are on the right path as you pass ‘Boot Hill’, an oddity of hundreds of boots, thongs, sneakers and even ski boots tied to an old fence. There are numerous campsites to be found in the State Forest accessed from either Dungog or Gresford.  The eastern side follows Telegherry Creek with Currawong camping area having a small creek crossing (unless its been raining) usually enough to reduce the number of campers.

The western side follows Allyn River. With several swimming spots along the track, including Ladies Well swimming hole, there are not many better places to take a refreshing dip amongst the forest. And while the summer temperatures may rise to the point of boiling a billy, the creek seems to retain its arctic like temperature perfect to enliven the sensors as you plunge from one of the rock shelves into the black ink pools. 

Luckily, unlike many National Parks where there are strict controls on fires and the collection of wood, there is plenty of timber to get the fire cracking to warm up any frost-bite from the days swim. Even better, camping is free.

But summer does not have to be restricted to swimming.  Chichester is also a great starting point for exploring many of the tracks throughout the Park.  While a topographic map definitely helps, you are bound to find numerous small tracks not marked on any map making Chichester a perfect spot to spend hours exploring and getting the 4WD dirty.   Alternatively an easy drive up the windy track to Mount Allyn lookout provides a 360 degree panoramic view over the forest. The ideal spot to watch the last summer rays disappear over the horizon.

 

 

Murrumbidgee, NSW

This Story was covered in Issue 64 of 4WD Touring Australia.

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The featureless Hay Plains stretches out before me, its pancake flat ancient lake bed devoid of anything to distract the mind. The road centre line, as straight as a laser beam, disappears into the horizon. Floating along the Sturt Highway the rhythmic hum of the AT tyres begin to give hints to the eyelids it is time to find camp.  Having driven along this stretch a few times, luckily I knew of a nice little campsite near Carathool, perched on the Murrumbidgee River.

With the sun dipping below the salt bush, impenetrable darkness quickly takes over with no moon or stars to expose the barren landscape. Almost feeling my way I turn down the dirt track, the thought of a warm fire and my first beer further relaxing the consciousness.  As the 4wd crests the large bank to drop down onto the river flat, inexplicably momentum is immediately sucked out of the car and a strange squishing sound emanates from outside. 

While the foot presses harder on the throttle, the sluggish brain starts to process what is going on.  I had camped here before on the flat dry river bank. I remember the cracked dry mud being a perfect spot to set up the camper. Dry MUD?  Hadn’t there been floods through here a few weeks ago?  By the time the neurons had computed what was going on I was 10 metres further in to the sloppy thick sludge.

Knowing that I would not be opening the cool ale soon it was time to make a plan.  There was no option of going forward as it would only send me further into the abyss so reversing was the only exit. Luckily I had the maxtrax but with the camper on the back even these extractive wonders were going to need some help.  The next hour involved the collection of branches, timber and logs within a mile radius to lay a path back up the bank.

Knowing there was only one chance of extraction, and not wanting to take a lonely walk in the middle of the Hay Plains, the shifter was thrust in to reverse.  With mud flying and branches spitting out from under the 4WD I slowly inched my way back up the embankment out of the clutches of the river.

I should have known this could happen as the Murrumbidgee is no stranger to flooding with the system relying on its periodic fluctuation of dry and flood.  Since first records there have been over 70 floods over 8 metres at this site, enough to put a halt to the best-equipped 4WD.  

You can see the Murrumbidgee well before you get there, the towering River Red Gums clinging to the river edge relying on the ephemeral floods to remain healthy. The Murrumbidgee is one of the few locations where dense forests of these majestic trees can be found. These timbers are also home to threatened species such as the Superb Parrot and Regents Parrot, making camping along the river an ideal bird watchers weekend.

The River originates high in Kosciuszko National Park until it spills its soupy brown liquid into the Murray River at Balranald over 1600 kilometres later. The river twists through the land of Ngarigo, Ngunnawal, Wiradjuri, Nari Nari and Muthi Muthi Aboriginal tribes, each placing their own importance on this ribbon of life. With ‘Murrumbidgee’ translating to ‘big water’ and ‘track goes down here’, both have a new sense of meaning following my foray into the mud.

In 1829 Charles Sturt rowed his whaleboat along the river eventually discovering what the traditional custodians of the land already knew that the Murrumbidgee drained into the sea. For those who live in the NSW Riverina, the Murrumbidgee continues attract people to the river playing host to all kinds of activities including swimming, canoeing and fishing.

While the Murray River often gets all of the accolades for fishing, the Murrumbidgee is worthy of throwing in a line.   With miles of timber snags it can result in success luring a golden perch or cod from their hide.  Alternatively, if accuracy of your cast is not precise, it can end in hours of frustration with lures and timber becoming forever intertwined.

But the river also attracts those from out of town in search of their own bend in the river to camp. While much of the river runs through private farmland luckily there are still numerous campsites to be found. Many are basic with limited facilities however the benefit is that they are mostly free with very little crowds.

 

My only word of advice on choosing the best campsite …… check the flood levels before you venture too close.

Desert Reflections

The following four short reflections were printed in Issue 60 of 4WD Touring Australia.

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The Boneyard...

The outback can be unforgiving, no more so than in the desert. It is a landscape of extremes, the relentless sun baking the earth sapping any microscopic droplet of dew that manages to form in the cool of the night. Life clings to the edge relying on the rare liquid gold falling from the sky.  While rains can turn the desert in to a green oasis, many times the rains do not come.

Pioneers of the past came here in search of the inland sea but only found hardship.  Carcory Homestead echo’s this suffering, abandoned after drought and the loss of 4000 bullocks. Amazingly modern day cattle grazers continue to eke out a living but even the best farmer cant compete against the fickleness of the desert rains.   This image is a reminder of the battle, the fate of a lone cow slowly petrifying in the dry air, no different to the bullocks of the past.

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The Clock...

Our busy lives are bombarded with artificial lights and glowing screens.  Day and night begin to loose their meaning. It does not take long for our bodies to separate from the natural circadian rhythms which recharge us each day. But camping in the desert changes all that.  Waking to the rising sun re-synchronises the body clock.  The body becomes more alert clearing the mind and regenerating the soul. 

Whenever I camp I make the effort to face the rising sun.  There are not many better views than slowly pealing back the zipper to see the day come to life.

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The Crossing...

The Sturt Stony Desert epitomises the interior of Australia. Stark. Endless. Remote.  It is a place that leaves a mark on both car suspension and driver.  Walkers Crossing is one of the few tracks which penetrates this isolated desert.  Where blue meets burnt orange the dirt road leads to the horizon seemingly reaching a cliff like finale on the edge of the world.

Despite its flat repetitive dimension there is something mesmerising about this unbroken landscape. It is common to travel this path without ever seeing another vehicle. The occasional emu may shimmer in the distance appearing to swim in the mirage but there is little more to distract the senses.

Nonetheless, I would replace the noisy, chaotic, smog filled city roads with this track any day.

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The Fire...

If there is one thing that goes hand in hand with camping in the desert, it is the campfire.  While the days are warm, once the golden orb dips below the horizon it is time to get the campfire crackling to escape the night-time chill.

There is something in our genetics that has been carried over from our early ancestors that makes us gather around a fire. It is both a ritual and a necessity. When I camp with the family it becomes the central point to sit and have dinner and tell stories. Replacing the technology of city life with simple dancing flames keeps the kids entertained all night, marshmallows and sticks constantly being poked in to the depths.

When camping by yourself the campfire takes on a different meaning.  It becomes your friend providing company, seemingly whispering to you and keeping the darkness ghosts at bay. Closing the eyes the warmth envelopes you, the flicker of the flames penetrating your eye lids.

This image was taken in Witjira National Park.  I can still smell the Guinness stew, its wafts of herbs mixing with smoke as it drifts towards the darkness of the Simpson Desert.

APRIL 2017: Myall Lakes, NSW

Another chance to take the lens on the road, this time to Myall Lakes north of Sydney.  The National Park has the best of both worlds with one side a beautiful lake to spend the hours canoeing, while the other side has a beach with long whit sands ideal for 4WDing. 

I was lucky enough to have some nice colours in the sky for some sunset images over the lake.

But even more fun was hitting the sand at Mungo Beach. It is the third longest beach in NSW with frequent big surf, high dunes and blowouts to the north. The beach is accessible at Mungo Brush but it was as soft as a marsh-mellow and chopped up following the easter weekend.  so we headed for Sandy Point. At the headland is nice and protected, enough for the kids to safely swim.

A birds eye view of our 4wd's.

The afternoon we headed back to the lake for an evening kayak. and with views like this you would not want to be anywhere else.

The next day we spent some time exploring the adjacent  Wallingat National Park.  An easy 25km loop through the forest, the snow-white trunks of gum trees dwarfing the car.  We headed for Whoota Whoota lookout with its scenic views of Wallis Lake, the forrest and coastline.

February 2017: Murrurundi on Horse Back

I was lucky enough to spend the weekend at Murrurundi photographing the amazing riders who participate in the King of the Ranges Stockman Challenge.  A special thanks to the organisers who invited me along and allowed me to get some images of this great event.

Bronson Macklinshaw demonstrated who was king of the range winning the event for the third year in a row.  Over three days of tough competition he mastered horse shoeing, stock handling, whip cracking, cross country, a bareback obstacle challenge, saddle bronc and wild horse catch.

The cross country event. 

Hold on tight.

Cowboys or Cowgirls. There are both to keep to interested.

These boots are made for walking  (or should that be riding).

There was even some night time entertainment with the Bung McInnes Re enactment including members of the Murrurundi Light Horse as well as High Velocity Trick riding.

Even the dogs had a great time.

A bit of whip cracking to get morning started.

What a great way to spend the weekend

Pipe Dream

This story is an excerpt from Issue #111 of Outback Magazine: Feb/March 2017.  To purchase a copy go to: https://www.outbackmag.com.au/shop/back-issues/

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A 20-year vision has brought water to a long-dry lakebed in south-western New South Wales.

The gentle lap of water on the shore of Paika Lake is broken only by the chatter of the banded stilts, their long pink legs probing the muddy shallows searching for dinner. The recently planted native rushes and reeds sway in the fresh westerly breeze. This is a far cry from the arid dust-laden paddock that once stretched out in front of Dianne Williams, the owner of Paika station, as she contemplates the remarkable journey to get here.  “There were times when locals would come up to me and say they have never seen water in the lake. I would quickly reply, ‘Well unless you are over 100 years old you wouldn’t have’,” Dianne says.

Paika Lake, Cherax Swamp, Hobblers Lake and surrounding wetlands are part of the Murrumbidgee River system in south-western New South Wales. In 1908 the lakes were disconnected from the Lowbidgee floodplain, when levees were constructed to concentrate water on the most productive land. Eventually Paika Lake and the surrounding wetlands dried up. As a consequence, “the health and diversity of plant and animal life dwindled, the river red gums that fringed the wetland had stunted or were near death, and the native seed bank was all but gone,” Dianne says.

In 1997 the Williams Family bought part of Paika Station. In the years that followed, drought was a constant reminder of how precious water was to the land. Dianne remembers when the dry lakebed was so fragile and could not be stocked for fear of losing all the soil. She says the westerly winds would swirl through the parched property, stripping it of life. “I remember years and years of shovelling buckets of dirt off the veranda,” she says.  

Sue and Peter Morton, owners of the adjacent station, shared with Dianne a desire to restore water to the land. The Morton family has been farming for three generations in the area and Peter’s commitment to restoration started as a boy collecting bird eggs with his father. Little did he realise this hobby would one day result in him bringing thousands of birds to a lake that had been dry for more than a century.

To read the rest of the story purchase the magazine at: https://www.outbackmag.com.au/shop/back-issues/

A Lap of Van Dieman's Land

his story was covered in issue 59 of 4WD Touring Australia.

 

That little island at the bottom of Australia has been on the bucket list to explore for a long time.  Finally we were able to escape the mainland and get a taste of what is has to offer.  

 

Many long to take a year off and do a lap of Oz.  For those that can’t spare the time the next best thing is to take a lap of a smaller heart shaped island at the bottom of the world. While Van Diemen’s Land was once a place of horrors for those that stepped on the wrong side of justice, today Tasmania is an ideal place to explore some of the National Parks it has to offer.

As a ‘mainlander’ we chose to take the car and camper on the Spirit of Tasmania. Departing the ferry we turn right in search of what the wild west coast has to offer. While many head for the popular towns of Strahan or Queenstown, the plan was to seek out the gravel road that weaves like a flowing river along the edge of the Tarkine rainforest. Wanting to make the most of the dirt we leave the highway at Smithton and head to Green Point Beach which overlooks the west tip towards Cape Grim.  This small free grassy campsite is a popular spot for surfers who come to experience ocean swells that have travelled hundreds of kilometers over remote oceans before crashing in to the coast.

Not only do the ocean swells travel hundreds of kilometres before reaching the west coast, the ‘roaring forties’, build up momentum having left South America, creating a windswept and wild coastline as though sculptured by a madman with a chainsaw. It’s easy to see why a part of this coast is known as “The End of the World”.

From Arthur River the road heads to the former mining settlement of Corinna. Known as the Western Explorer Road, this easy gravel road takes you along the edge of the Arthur Pieman Conservation Area. Arthur Pieman provides an ideal opportunity to lock the hubs with the Balfour Track the most famous, its 70 metre long canal-like stretch of water often requiring a submarine to get through.  As the area is renowned for eating cars this one will have to wait for another time.

Arriving at Corinna, the wilderness retreat has some small but pleasant campsites strung out along the Pieman River. While there may not be any phone reception there is still the ability to get a cold beer at the old Tarkine Hotel.

Corrina is also famous for the Fatman. Not, the person behind the hotel, but the small barge big enough for our car and camper only, to cross the Pieman River.

We spend the next few days enjoying the fact that the kids electronic devices cant connect and explore the walking trails through rainforests with 1000 year old Huon Pines, their branches draped by fluorescent lime green moss.

While the west coast provides a taste of remoteness, we move on to Cradle Mountain National Park, proving an opportunity to don the walking boots and breath in the fresh mountain air.  Many make the easy Dove Lake circular walk, while some tackle the famous 6 day overland track between Cradle Mountain and Lake St Claire.   We opt for something in between with several long day walks through button grass moors and majestic mountain peaks covered with bursts of red and orange wildflowers like an English garden. The final climb to the summit of Cradle Mountain is only for the brave with vertical boulder hopping that leaves a passing walker trembling as they descend.

Continuing on the lap we make our way to Freycinet National Park. While not a place for off-road driving, the campsite perched on the edge of Great Oyster Bay makes the effort of bringing the camper trailer well worth it. While the popular walk to Wine Glass Bay Lookout gives you a taste of what the park has to offer, to truly experience its white sands, we continue on to the bay and Hazards Beach. The next morning we climb the harder Mount Amos to watch the morning light caress the bay. With adrenalin still pumping we hire Kayaks and slowly glide through the turquoise water exploring the inlets and little bays.

While weeks could be spent at Freycinet we have one more National Park to add to our list, this time continuing up the east coast to the Bay of Fires Conservation Area.  While many think the name is due to the fire red and orange algae that covers the boulders, the name was actually given by Captain Tobias Furneaux, in 1773, when he noticed numerous fires along the coast.

Featured on many lists of the top 10 beaches in the World, it is hard to argue against its ranking especially when you can set up camp at one of the numerous free sites along the coast. Despite it being mid summer and the blue water and white sand passing for a tropical island, the cool waters are enough to keep us ‘mainlanders’ from anything more than a refreshing dip.

A few more days are spent exploring the dirt roads of Mount William National Park before completing our lap and returning on the Spirit.  The early convicts dreaded the thought of being shipped to Van Diemen’s Land, but we look forward to our next sail across the Bass Straight in search of more dirt tracks and spectacular campsites.

January 2017: Tasmania's West Coast

Time to hit the road again, this time jumping on to the Spirit of Tasmania to the 'Apple Isle'.  While we did not see too many apples we did get to explore some of the amazing natural scenery the island has to offer.

PART 1: WEST COAST

This post I will focus on the West Coast as we made our way from Devenport west. First stop Stanley, famous for the sheer-sided bluff called the Nut, the remains of an ancient volcanic plug. For the fit their is a steep but short waling track to the summit of the Nut, or you can take the chairlift.

From Stanley we continued to the coast following the less travelled Harcus River Road to Marrawah Green Point Campground. This small free grassy camp site is a stones throw to the beach.

From here we followed the to the 'Edge of the World'.  Located at Arthur River, this certainly does feel like the end of the world with a wild, rugged coastline battered by the wild roaring forties.  

From here it was a drive along the Arthur-Piemann Conservation area.  Based on the car and trailer not being capable of being a submarine we bypassed the Balfour Track.  

A few days were spent at Corinna, a historic town set in pristine rainforest on the banks of the Pieman River.  Located on the edge of the Tarkine temperate rainforest, the area is famous for the Huon pine.

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